Introduction
Jamaica is a Caribbean country best known for its lush green mountains, waterfalls, pristine beaches and vibrant music scene. Bob Marley, one of the most influential musicians of the last century, was born here in a small inland town. The country’s natural landscapes and impact on global trends do not match its small size, making it a must-visit destination for those seeking a blend of natural beauty and immersive culture.
While the island is often associated with all-inclusive beach resorts, we opted for a different approach. During our week-long visit, we explored the country independently by car, settling accommodation deals through Airbnb and Booking.com. Shall we have a closer look at our itinerary?
Day 0: arrival
We arrived just before dinner time at Kingston airport (Norman Manley), having flown in from the Dominican Republic, which we visited before. After swiftly clearing customs, we headed to the rental car facility to pick up our vehicle for the next week. It was given a proper test right away, as we promptly drove to Montego Bay, stopping just for dinner. We spent the next three nights in a residential neighborhood near the city center.
- Kingston -> Montego Bay (170km; 2h36)
- Toll price (A1 road): ~2300JMD for class 1 cars (cash only as of 2023)
Day 1: first acquaintances with Montego Bay
1.1. Rocklands Bird Sanctuary
- Montego Bay -> Rocklands Bird Sanctuary (11km; 19min)
Our first proper stop in Jamaica was this nature site in the hills overlooking Montego. This is a family-run place, established in the 50s by a local resident with a passion for birdlife. It offers a unique opportunity to interact with diverse native bird species, including the national bird: the Swallow-Tail Hummingbird (nicknamed “Doctor Bird”).
The sanctuary’s guides enhance the visit by providing valuable information about several species. One of the best activities here is to hand-feed the birds with seeds or sugary water. Several species, including different kinds of hummingbirds, will approach you and even perch on your hand while feeding. The admission is somewhat pricey but it’s an worthwhile experience overall.
- Admission fee: 25 USD
- Expected duration of visit: 2h
1.2. Mayfield Falls
- Rocklands Bird Sanctuary -> Mayfield Falls (33km; 1h14)
Nestled within the lush forest inland from Montego Bay, this hidden gem unveils itself. The falls consist of a sequence of pristine, crystal-clear pools fed by natural spring water, surrounded by winding nature trails. It serves as an optimal destination for relaxation and a connection with Jamaica’s natural beauty.
- Admission fee: 20 USD
1.3. Dead End Beach
- Mayfield Falls -> Montego Bay (36km; 1h11)
We then headed to one of the best sunset spots in Montego Bay. Dead End Beach is located on the northern tip of the city, just beyond the bustling Hip Strip. The airport is situated nearby, allowing us to witness planes taking off and landing from this spot.
Vendors set up stands selling weed, drinks and snacks just by the beach while families cherish the last rays of light at the beach. Lovers start arriving for the sunset, and occasionally, a plane lands a few hundred meters away. Columns playing reggae music out loud bring everything together, showcasing the spirit of Jamaica in one place.
Day 2: Negril
- Montego Bay -> Negril (74km; 1h43)
We spent our second day on Seven-Mile Beach, one of the island’s most renowned stretches of coastline that extends for approximately seven miles along the shores of Negril. It is known for its vibrant sunset hues and pristine white sand, and often considered one of the most beautiful beaches in the Caribbean. The beach is also a hub for water sports such as parasailing, jet-skiing, and kitesurfing.
These shores are lined with a variety of resorts, hotels, restaurants, and beach bars. Please be aware that bars and restaurants typically require you to make a purchase for beach access and do not allow outside food. There are, however, dedicated public beach areas where you can freely access (with parking fees applying).
- Parking lot (public beach): 1 USD
Day 3: Montego Bay to Ocho Rios
3.1. Central Montego Bay
Early morning was dedicated to the city center. We couldn’t miss the famous Hip Strip, where we checked for souvenirs and enjoyed an early breakfast. This stretch of asphalt is renowned for its energetic atmosphere, featuring an array of shops, restaurants, and venues that come alive at night. Numerous bars and clubs offer live music and DJ performances, providing a chance to experience the island’s vibrant nightlife.
The central blocks do not offer much to see and Sam Sharpe Square, the central plaza of Montego, is a rather uninteresting place. Named after a national hero, the area is a hub for shopping, with various stalls, shops and markets selling local crafts and products. St. James Parish Church lies close by and deserves a quick visit. The Harbour Street Craft and Cultural Village is also a nice place to buy souvenirs if you haven’t already at the Hip Strip.
- Expected duration of visit: 1h30
3.2. Falmouth
- Montego Bay -> Falmouth (34km; 0h45)
Not far from Montego Bay lies the historic town of Falmouth, situated on the northern shores of the island. Established in the 18th century, it was once a bustling center for sugar production and trade.
Falmouth’s historic district is characterized by cobblestone streets and colorful buildings that showcase the architectural style of the Georgian era. This small town is easily covered but the Falmouth Court House and St. Peter’s Anglican Church are key landmarks that deserve a visit.
Close to Falmouth, you can find Martha Brae’s Rafting Village, a popular spot for guided rafting on bamboo structures along the picturesque Martha Brae River. Due to time constraints, we decided to skip this popular Instagram spot and headed to Nine Mile, the birth town of Bob Marley.
- Expected duration of visit (Falmouth): 1h
3.3. Nine Mile
- Falmouth -> Nine Mile (70km; 1h36)
To reach this small inland village, one must navigate the winding roads of the Jamaican countryside. The city itself revolves around the memory of the historic lead singer of The Wailers, with the main point of interest being the former house of the artist and his family.
This house is now converted into a museum that offers guided tours. Across the various rooms of the house, visitors will find pictures and other memorabilia of the family, as well as prizes and awards. The final resting place of Bob Marley is a small promontory within the villa and where the tour ends, referred to by your guide as “Mount Zion.”
The experience is well worth considering if you’re nearby as it overpays the time spent on the detour. From there, we continued through the zigzagging roads back to the shore, where we slept in Ocho Rios.
- Admission fee: 30USD / 4600JMD
- Expected duration of visit: 2h
- Nine Mile -> Ocho Rios (44km; 1h13)
Day 4: Ocho Rios
We spent just one night in Ocho Rios (link for our hotel), a coastal town widely recognized as a common stop for cruise vessels. The name ‘Ocho Rios’ is Spanish for ‘Eight Rivers,’ although the town itself does not have them. We found the city artificial, uninteresting and heavily geared toward tourism. On the pier, dozens of cab drivers, some dressed with rastafari clothes or wigs, await tourists to sell them their “true Jamaica” tours to the massively exploited Dunn’s River Falls.
4.1. Dunn’s River Falls
- Ocho Rios -> Dunn’s River Falls (4km; 7min)
This could be one of the best places in Jamaica: a majestic waterfall that descends over 600 feet through multiple drops. Unfortunately, it is also the favorite day tour of the hundreds who arrive by ship, turning it into the worst tourist trap in Jamaica. All the areas around the falls are designed to accommodate the maximum number of tourists who orderly climb the terraced steps alongside the falls.
The staff along the climb cheers and yells even louder than the crowd, transforming what should be a serene and natural setting into a chaotic environment. The site could be explored in a sustainable way, but profits seem to matter more.
- Admission fee: Adult 25USD / Child 17USD
- Expected duration of visit: 30-60min (2h if you’re willing to climb the falls)
From here we proceeded East to Port Antonio, the capital of the lesser known parish of Portland, where we stayed on an Airbnb for two nights.
Days 5-6: Port Antonio
Port Antonio was the highlight of our Jamaican journey. This quaint town fortunately lacks the massive tourism seen in Montego or Ocho Rios, allowing us to revel in the Jamaican turquoise waters and golden sands without the need to contend with crowds.
Port Antonio itself doesn’t offer much beyond its small city center, from where a tall church emerges. Our Airbnb overlooked the centre from a hill, providing excellent opportunities for camera shots and aerial drone footage. We planned to spend two days here exploring some beaches east of the city. It’s important to note that, as of 2023, the driving conditions in this area are poor, with numerous potholes and intensive roadwork.
The first day in Port Antonio was spent at the Frenchman’s Cove beach, a private tropical paradise. The beach is located within a “resort-like” area that requires an entrance fee. This ensures privacy and a beach practically to yourself. This is essential as the beach consists of only about 20-30 meters of sandy shore surrounded by rocks. Palm trees provide a much-needed shade for a sunbathing day, and a small bar serves quick meals and drinks, eliminating the need to leave the private areas in search of food.
- Admission fee: 1800JMD
Our second day was intended to be spent at Boston Beach, a popular spot for locals. Although it’s not private, there is a fee for parking. The beach is wider than Frenchman’s Cove, but the sandy shore is quite narrow. The coastline is sheltered by two elevated extensions of land that almost embrace each other. Plenty of shade is provided by the trees behind. A couple of nearby roadside jerk restaurants make for an ideal lunch stop.
- Parking lot (Boston Beach): 500JMD
By 4pm we drove all the way back, crossing the island south to Kingston, our final stop in the country. We stayed at a nice, convenient hotel that you can find here.
- Boston Beach -> Kingston (102km; 2h39)
Day 7: Kingston
Being the country’s capital does not shield you from tourist neglect. This is oddly oddly true: most visitors stick to the northern coast of Jamaica and skip visiting Kingston. Most arrive to the country in charters that fly straight to Montego Bay’s airport.
We are not suggesting that the city has that much to see. Plus, Kingston does not enjoy a good reputation on safety, particularly at night. We chose to visit it on our last day in Jamaica, just before our flight back.
Our first stop was the Emancipation Park, a public garden built in 2002 to commemorate the 200th anniversary of the abolition of the transatlantic slave trade. A sculpture titled “Redemption Song” holds ground at the park’s entrance, symbolising the transition from slavery to freedom. It is a common sight to see people enjoying the park for various activities, such as jogging, yoga, or simply taking a leisurely stroll.
- Expected duration of visit: 30min
Our second stop was the house and studio of Bob Marley, now converted into a museum. Following our visit to his childhood home in Nine Mile, we continued to follow his footsteps to his adulthood residence, acquired after achieving success and world fame. Visits are scheduled as guided tours, allowing visitors to explore the rooms where Bob Marley lived and recorded some of his most famous hits. The spaces have been preserved to reflect the time when Marley resided there, showcasing many of his personal belongings and memorabilia.
- Expected duration of visit: 1h
- Admission fee: 25USD
The city center does not offer anything particularly special to see, but curiosity led us to Trenchtown because of the ‘No Woman No Cry’ lyrics. However, the neighborhood itself proved to be uninteresting.
7.1. Port Royal
- Kingston -> Port Royal (32km; 43min)
We then went for Port Royal, our last stop in Jamaica. This is a historic port city near Kingston. Established by the Spanish in 1518, it later became a significant English port after the British captured the island in 1655. The town quickly gained prominence as a center for trade, commerce, and piracy in the Caribbean.
The town’s prosperity was short-lived, however, as a catastrophic earthquake in 1692 caused much of Port Royal to sink into the sea. Today, Port Royal is a destination for history buffs where visitors can explore the old town and Fort Charles, built for protection against pirate attacks.
- Port Royal -> Norman Manley Airport (10km; 14min)
And here ends our week-long journey in Jamaica, a country that boasts a singular culture and lush green landscapes. From the pristine beaches of Negril to the historic streets of Port Royal, the island unfolds a rich history and warm hospitality that embraces the “One Love” rhetoric of Bob Marley. The musical legacy of Jamaica and the popular rastafari religion that thrives here makes this island a must-see destination in your lifetime.