Damascus breathes history on every corner. It was conquered, destroyed and rebuilt a number of times, and witnessed the rise and fall of numerous civilizations. Its strategic location along ancient trade routes favoured its prominence as a hub of commerce, culture, and power.
The Arameans, Assyrians, Persians, and Greeks all passed here, leaving their fingerprint on the city’s architecture. However, Damascus definitely grew and thrived as a metropolis during the Roman period, earning the nickname “City of Jasmine.” The Islamic Umayyad Caliphate later made the city its capital in the 7th century CE and turned it into a hub of political and religious influence, from which the Umayyad Mosque is an unparalleled example.
It eventually became part of the Ottoman Empire until World War I, after which it shifted to French control. Damascus subsequently played a significant role in the struggle for Syrian independence and the establishment of modern Syria. During the recent Syrian conflict, the opposition came really close to the city but the government was able to hold its ground.
We visited Damascus on the first and last days of the tour. On the first one we saw El-Azm palace, the Umayyad Mosque, the National Museum, the souqs and the chapel of Saint Ananias. During the last day we spent a couple of hours visiting the Sayyidah Zainab Mosque, on the southern periphery of the city.
1.1. El-Azm Palace
Our initial destination was the El-Azm Palace. Built during the Ottoman era, in the mid-18th century, the palace is considered one of the finest examples of traditional Damascene architecture. It was erected by order of Pasha El-Azm, a member of the prominent El-Azm family, known for their political and administrative contributions during the Ottoman Empire’s rule.
The focal point of the palace is its grand courtyard. Surrounded by various buildings and halls, it features a central fountain and is adorned with well-kept gardens and plants. The palace showcases a blend of Arab, Ottoman, and Persian styles, together weaving an intricate narrative of the palace’s history.
1.2. Umayyad Mosque
This is probably the most important monument in Damascus, and one of the oldest and most significant religious sites in the Islamic world. Originally erected in 715 CE, the mosque’s foundations rest on the site of an ancient Aramaean temple and a Roman temple dedicated to Jupiter.
Visitors are greeted by a golden courtyard, encircled by a covered colonnade. At the center lies a marble fountain, used for ritual ceremonies and communal ablutions. The interior of the prayer hall features a high wooden ceiling with beautiful paintings and geometric designs, while the walls are filled with mosaics, calligraphy, and colourful tile work. We can also find a small tomb here, where it is said that the head of St. John the Baptist (an important character also in Islam) rests.
The mosque complex also encompasses other marvels. Among them is the mausoleum honoring the legacy of the renowned military leader, Saladin (Salah al-Din). Our tour also led us to this space, allowing us to immerse ourselves in the life of this historical figure who helped shape the Middle East.
1.3. National Museum
Also known as the Syrian National Museum, this building is considered one of the most important collections in the Arab world. It was established in 1919 and hosts a never-ending collection of items that prove the rich heritage of Syria. The exhibits include artifacts from ancient Mesopotamia, Assyria, Persia, Phoenicia, and the Hellenistic, Roman, Byzantine, and Islamic periods.
Unfortunately, due to the ongoing conflict in Syria, the National Museum has faced significant challenges. Efforts have been made to protect and preserve the artifacts, including relocating some of the most valuable pieces to safer locations. Today it’s only possible to see about one third of the collection, but it’s still well worth the visit.
1.4. The Souqs
The capital city of Syria is also famous for its vibrant markets. It has a long legacy of trading activity, and its souqs have been bustling hubs of commerce for centuries. Beyond trade, the souqs have also played a social role throughout history. They were places for people to gather, exchange news, and engage in discussions.
As you lose yourself in these alleys, be sure to pay attention to the architecture. The details within the walkways and stores have evolved over centuries of trading culture, corroborating the merchant spirit of Damascus.
1.5. Chapel of Saint Ananias
This underground room is believed to have once been the dwelling place of Ananias, one of the disciples of Jesus. It stands as one of the most revered sites in Damascus, as it is widely believed to be the very spot where Paul the Apostle underwent his baptism. The subterranean structure is notably compact. One of the chambers has been transformed into a modest church, while an adjoining chamber showcases sacred artwork depicting the life story of St. Paul.
1.6. Sayyidah Zainab Mosque
This mosque, located in the southern suburbs of Damascus, holds deep significance in Islamic history. It is named after the granddaughter of the Prophet Muhammad and is extremely special to the Shia Muslim community.
It was built according to traditional Islamic design, featuring a huge dome and tall minarets rising above the Damascus skyline. The interior is adorned with silver elements, crystals and mirrors, intricate calligraphy and geometric patterns. All of these evoke a sense of luxury and reverence.
Importantly, militias that do not approve the Shia interpretation of Islam have been targeting this mosque with terrorist attacks. We were in Syria in April 2023 and the last raid had been many years ago, in 2016. However, there has been a new bomb attack in July 2023, causing 6 deaths. We thus strongly recommend to get the latest security updates before visiting this mosque.
And so we reach the end of our journey through the highlights in Damascus. From its labyrinthine alleys and bustling souqs to its revered religious sites and architectural wonders, visiting this city is actually time traveling. The oldest continuously inhabited city in the world reincarnates our imagination when we envision the quintessential Middle East capital city, and surely deserves to be visited.