Nestled within the Syrian desert, this secluded ancient metropolis has mesmerized both travelers and historians. Palmyra stands as one of the most renowned Roman cities in the Middle East, and for good reason. The history of these ruins dates back millennia, when caravan routes from the Mediterranean to the East converged in this desert enclave. Originally established as an oasis settlement, Palmyra flourished under the influence of Roman rule, transforming into a prosperous city celebrated for its opulence and cultural richness.
One of the most captivating tales associated with Palmyra unfolds around 240 CE, during the city’s period of Roman dominance. At that time, Queen Zenobia assumed leadership of Palmyra after her husband, the King, was assassinated. Fueled by ambition, she sought to expand the kingdom’s influence amid a decaying Roman Empire. Her rebellion against Rome marks a significant chapter in Palmyra’s history, highlighting the city’s bold spirit.
Seizing the power vacuum left by the Romans, Zenobia embarked on a westward conquest, ultimately capturing Egypt and portions of present-day Turkey. Her challenge to Rome’s dominance provoked a military action from the Empire. In 272 CE, the Palmyrenes were defeated, leading to the loss of their status as an independent kingdom. Rome took measures to control the city’s development in the ensuing decades, aiming to thwart any potential uprisings. By the 7th century, following the decline of the Roman and Byzantine realms, the Islamic tribes assumed control over the region, resulting in the city’s eventual abandonment.
Centuries later, another tragedy haunted this Roman marvel. In 2015, during the Syrian conflict, ISIS intentionally targeted some of Palmyra’s most iconic structures. The Temple of Bel, the Arch of Triumph, and the Museum suffered partial detonation. However, it still offers attractions to explore. So, what does Palmyra look like in the year 2023?
Roman Theatre
One of our favorite buildings in Palmyra, that stands as a testament to the city’s cultural traditions. Carved into the hillside, the theatre features several rows of stone benches accommodating around 1,500 people. Performances took place on an elevated stage framed by ornate columns. The architecture and intricate details reflect a blend of Roman and Eastern influences. While ISIS did dynamite the central back wall of the stage, the structure remains in good condition nevertheless.
Tetrapylon
The Tetrapylon was situated at the intersection of some of the city’s main streets. It was characterised by an meticulous arrangement of columns and arches, forming a cross-like shape. It was a symbol of Palmyra’s opulence and grandeur.
The Tetrapylon in Palmyra was a combination of original and reconstructed elements. The original columns were carved out from pink granite imported from Egypt, likely from the quarries of Aswan. However, ISIS destroyed the structure and smuggled the original stones across borders to potentially trade them for oil or weapons. Today, all that remains are the ruins and the previously restored fragments of the Tetrapylon.
Arc of Triumph
This arch is another iconic landmark of Palmyra, strategically placed at the city’s entrance to welcome travelers and visitors. Built during the 3rd century CE, it stood near the intersection of the Cardo Maximus and the Decumanus Maximus, just before the colonnaded street. Regrettably, it was partially destroyed by ISIS, and today, only remnants of the arch can be found in the columns that once supported it.
The colonnaded street extended for over a kilometer through the city center and featured raised supports for small statues of deities and high-ranking soldiers and administrators. Sadly, these statues were also destroyed by Daesh.
Temple of Bel
This was an awe-inspiring structure dedicated to praising the god Bel. The temple’s design seamlessly blended Roman and Mesopotamian architectural influences, serving as a perfect embodiment of Palmyra’s cultural heritage. This edifice was also a center for social and cultural interactions, beyond its religious purpose. The complex included spaces for public gatherings, markets, and artistic performances.
Once an imposing masterpiece, this temple fell victim to the near-complete destruction by ISIS. Today, only the frame of a doorway remains standing, a shy reminder of what once stood here. Amidst the debris, fragments of columns and capitals still evidence the intricate designs and exotic motifs that adorned them.
Tower Tombs
Located a bit further from the center, we come across these peculiar structures scattered amidst the sand. These tower-like edifices served as family mausoleums, adorned with carvings and inscriptions that offer insights into the lives of the ancient city’s residents.
Most of these structures were subjected to bombing during the presence of ISIS, while others suffered vandalism and were used as hideouts. As these tombs sometimes featured deities that did not align with the beliefs of Daesh, they painted over any depictions of human forms on the walls or ceilings.
Furthermore, they opened and sacked graves, as Palmyrenes traditionally buried their beloved along with offerings for the gods. We can still observe the opened graves, some of them containing human remains, but nothing more. In some instances, they even stole the human bones.
The Walls of Palmyra
These city walls were constructed during the 1st century, encircling residential areas, gardens, and the oasis. Positioned with strategic foresight, they provided protection for both the inhabitants and the precious trade routes of the city. This underlined the strategic significance of Palmyra, solidifying its role as a bustling crossroads of commerce.
Following the Roman triumph over Zenobia, Emperor Aurelian introduced the smaller Diocletian Walls as a means to curb the city’s expansion and influence.
Temple of Baalshamin
This temple was a historically significant structure, embodying typical Palmyrene features. Similar to the Temple of Bel, this one also functioned as a cultural gathering place. Regrettably, the Temple of Baalshamin did not evade the destruction caused by Daesh during their occupation of Palmyra. The structure was completely damaged and only the debris are left today.
Agora
The agora was a bustling marketplace and the epicenter of the city’s social and commercial interactions. The square, measuring 71×84 meters, was enveloped by columns and arcades that provided an inviting backdrop for socialization and trade. Adorning the column bases were statues of prominent citizens and military figures. Stalls and shops enriched the square, presenting a diverse assortment of commodities. This area emerged relatively unscathed following the takeover of Daesh in Palmyra.
Aqfa Spring
The primary catalyst for the founding and flourishing of the city is the presence of a water source. The springs surrounding Palmyra served as a pivotal determinant in determining its location, allowing it to thrive amidst the arid desert. Among these, the historical Aqfa Spring holds significance: a cave hewn into rock around six thousand years ago. Unfortunately, this site was sabotaged by ISIS some years ago. The spring and cave have however been restored to their original state in 2022.
Final thoughts
And here we conclude our day of exploration through the marvels of Palmyra. While some structures have suffered significant damage, there remains a wealth of unharmed beauty to behold. Confronting the tangible traces of ISIS’s recent presence evoked a sense of unease, but on a positive note, initiatives to reconstruct the city’s key landmarks are underway.
Despite it all, our sense of wonder prevailed as we stood amidst the remnants of this desert oasis, once grand and glorious. Palmyra stands as a testament to the enduring spirit of human achievement and history that surely deserves a visit.