La Hispaniola by car: 8 days in the Dominican Republic

The eastern half of the island of La Hispaniola is home to the Dominican Republic (D.R.), a vibrant country renowned for its tropical landscapes and pristine beaches. Over the past few decades, the D.R. has been the perfect Caribbean getaway and solidified its status as a safe tourist haven, particularly from Europe. The country’s political stability and competitive pricing (comparing to other Caribbean destinations) have been key factors attracting these travelers who mainly seek beach destinations and all-inclusive resorts.

Its idyllic beaches pamper visitors with crystal-clear waters, white sands, and lush palm trees that provide an ideal setting for sunbathing, water sports, and relaxation. Punta Cana is still the main beach destination while new alternatives such as Samaná and Bayahibe are increasing their popularity. However, Puerto Plata, once a bustling tourist hub, has seen a decline and now relies on regular cruise ships to bring tourists to the city.

Besides its beautiful shores, the Dominican Republic offers a range of other captivating sites to explore. On this road trip, we managed to visit the three biggest cities: Santo Domingo (full itinerary here), Santiago de los Caballeros and Puerto Plata. Additionally, we explored natural wonders such as the popular Cascada El Limón and the less crowded Los Haitises Natural Park.

Readers must be advised that, in order to cover all that in 8 days, we chose to skip the highly touristy Isla Saona and Cayo Levantado. We have no regrets about our decision, as there are plenty of equally stunning beaches in other locations to enjoy. Let’s then have a look to our itinerary:

Day 0: arrival

You may notice that we typically don’t include the arrival day in our itineraries. This is because we often use the remaining hours of that day to promptly drive to our first destination or its vicinity. Our road trip in the D.R. follows the same pattern.

Upon our arrival at around 18:00 in Santo Domingo, we walked straight to the rental company to pick up our vehicle. It’s worth noting that we ended up paying nearly double what we had initially expected due to mandatory insurance requirements for driving in the D.R. The rental company (Hertz) did not informed us about this upon reservation. After the inherent formalities, we drove closer to Santiago de los Caballeros, our first point of interest. We opted to stay at an airbnb not far from Santiago, in the town of Concepción de la Vega.

• Santo Domingo “Las Americas” airport -> Concepción de la Vega (154km; 1h55)

Day 1: Santiago de los Caballeros and Puerto Plata

1.1. Santiago de los Caballeros

• Concepción de la Vega -> Santiago de los Caballeros (38km; 0h42)

The second biggest city in the D.R. lies on the northern slopes of the country. The city’s cultural heritage is deeply rooted in its colonial past, where it played a significant role. The most important historical landmark, the Monument to the Heroes of the Restoration, commemorates the country’s struggle for independence from Spanish rule. A visit to this monument is highly recommended, as it provides valuable insights into the Dominican journey to independence. The views from the upper balcony, overlooking the town, were a welcomed treat.

• Admission fee: 100 DOP
• Opening hours: Mon-Fri 8-17h / Sat 9-17h / Sun 9-16h

The city center is a blend of bustling streets, colorful markets and lively plazas, where people-watching is a must. We intentionally lost ourselves in these charming alleys for a couple of hours, ensuring that we made stops at Parque Duarte, Catedral Santiago Apóstol, and Fortaleza San Luis. The San Luis fortress is open to visitors and hosts today’s city jail and several police departments. On the way back to the car, we enjoyed lunch on one of the many restaurants near the Monument to the Heroes of the Restoration.

Unfortunately, we were unable to visit another significant city landmark, the cigar factory “La Aurora”. Tours are said to be free of charge, but the shop closes on weekends.

• Admission fee (“La Aurora”): free
• Opening hours (“La Aurora”): 8-17h (closed on weekends)
• Expected duration of visit (Santiago de los Caballeros): 3-4h

1.2. Puerto Plata

• Santiago de los Caballeros -> Puerto Plata (72km; 1h20)

The second and third largest cities in the country are located in close proximity to each other. Puerto Plata was once a thriving tourist hub in D.R. that’s declining in popularity after Punta Cana stole the spotlight. Today, it primarily depends on cruise tourism, with cruise ships docking here for a couple of days before moving on to their next destination.

Fuerte San Felipe is one of the main historic sites of the city. Built during the 16th century, this fort helped Spain protecting the northern shores of La Hispaniola from pirates and other European conquerors. Inside the fort’s defensive walls, visitors can explore a small exhibition that delves into the history of the fort and the city.

The city center isn’t as bustling as Santiago de los Caballeros, unless you stumble upon crowds from cruise ships. Parque Central is not to be missed, as well as the cathedral of San Felipe Apóstol. Not too far away, you’ll encounter two “attractions” that hint at the city’s declining charm: the Umbrella Street and the Pink Street (Paseo de Doña Blanca).

While we opted for different beaches to visit and unwind, there are excellent options in this area if you’re seeking a few days of relaxation. The golden sands and the clear waters of Playa Dorada might be the best option for this purpose.

• Admission fee (Fuerte San Felipe): 100 DOP
• Opening hours (Fuerte San Felipe): 9-17h (closed on Mondays)
• Expected duration of visit (Puerto Plata): 3h

Day 2: heading to the Samaná Peninsula

After a restful night on an airbnb in Puerto Plata, the second day brings us to a long journey. It will be a 4h-drive to Las Terrenas, a laid-back small town placed at the isthmus of the Samaná Peninsula. We spent the entire morning in the car, making occasional stops to appreciate the scenic vistas, and enjoyed lunch shortly before arriving in Las Terrenas.

We stayed at an Airbnb in this charming, small-sized village on the northern shores of the Samaná Peninsula for two nights. While not being a top destination for international travelers, it lures expats, digital nomads and hippies looking for great beaches and no frenzy. We took a brief stroll through the picturesque city center, which primarily features surf shops, cafés, and restaurants, before indulging in a relaxing afternoon at the beach.

• Puerto Plata -> Las Terrenas (192km; 3h44)

Day 3: Samaná Peninsula

This was one of our favorite places in the D.R.. From Las Terrenas, we went to explore the lush, green slopes of the peninsula that conceal the fantastic Salto el Limón and the white sands of Playa Rincón. Samaná Bay is also renowned for whale-watching if you happen to visit the country between January and March. Cayo Levantado, the famous Bacardi Island, is here as well but we chose to visit Playa Rincón instead.

3.1. Playa Rincón

• Las Terrenas -> Playa Rincón (74km; 1h50)

We began our journey by visiting this hidden gem, located at the farthest end of the main road in the peninsula. The remote location, far from the resorts and the city of Samaná, helps explain why this paradise is still relatively undiscovered.

This idyllic beach boasts miles of soft white sand, bordered by palm trees and crystal-clear turquoise waters. Its unspoiled atmosphere makes it a perfect destination for travelers seeking a secluded paradise. The beach remains undeveloped but a handful of local beach bars and restaurants offer Dominican seafood and beverages to visitors.

3.2. Salto El Limón

• Playa Rincón -> Salto El Limón (52km; 1h15)

Most travel guides and blogs often suggest that Salto El Limón is best by early morning, before the crowds arrive. Based on our experience, we beg to differ. The original idea was to visit the waterfall early, but the crowds were already there. We proceeded to Playa Rincón and decided to come back later.

It’s worth noting that the waterfall has three hiking paths, each with its own corresponding parking lot: Casa Nega, Parada Ismael, and Rancho Español. Casa Nega tends to attract more crowds, so it’s advisable to avoid it if you prefer a quieter experience and don’t want to be approached by guides.

We couldn’t have been happier with the timing of our visit, especially since we had no plans to swim in the waterfall. We arrived at the Parada Ismael parking lot around 16:30 and paid the parking fee (300 DOP). On the way there, we noticed that tourist buses were already returning to Samaná, which worked in our favor. Shortly after we began our hike, we were approached by a guide but politely declined his services.

We completed the 2.5-kilometer hike independently, and by the time we reached the waterfall, the last visitors were already leaving. This allowed us to have this stunning place to ourselves, which was perfect for taking photos. We made it back to the car before sunset and spent the night in Las Terrenas.

• Parking lot fee (Parada Ismael): 300 DOP
• Salto El Limón hike: 2,5km; 0h45 one way

Day 4: Los Haitises National Park

• Las Terrenas -> Los Haitises (207km; 4h22)

This day marks the longest drive of our itinerary. The plan was to reach Punta Cana while squeezing a boat tour at Los Haitises National Park. The name “Los Haitises” translates into “hilly land” in the Taino language. The park comprises several towering rock formations emerging out of the water and is a mandatory stop in the country for nature and birdwatching enthusiasts.

Regarding the boat tour, you can embark from Samaná, crossing the Samaná Bay to the National Park. This option is however more expensive, setting you back around 70-100€ per person, at a minimum.

Instead, we opted to drive all the way to Caño Hondo, where small motor boats depart for tours of Los Haitises. These tours last between 1 to 1.5 hours, and the captain is aware of the locations of various bird species, ensuring you’re able to spot the most relevant ones. As it may be hard to locate, these are the coordinates for the pier: 19.063873, -69.450919.

• Boat ride fee (per person): 1800 DOP
• Expected duration of visit: 1h30

The nearby fishermen’s village of Sabana del Mar is an excellent place to stop for a meal, even though it doesn’t offer a wide selection of restaurants. We enjoyed lunch at Caney Restaurant, located near the pier, which we recommend.

• Los Haitises -> Punta Cana (151km; 2h47)

Days 5-7: Punta Cana

We dedicated the second half of our journey to relax and enjoy the pristine beaches of Punta Cana. We opted for an airbnb in the city center, which initially seemed like a good idea. However, the vibrant city nights turned out to be noisier than expected, and we found ourselves yearning for a quieter, more peripheral neighborhood.

Central Punta Cana also presents an issue with the private beaches controlled by waterfront bars. Most of the palm trees and artificial shade structures are located within these private areas, which often require you to make a purchase, potentially making a day at the beach less enjoyable.

This is why we decided to visit one of the best family-friendly beaches in Punta Cana, Playa Macao, situated slightly north of the city. It offers a more serene atmosphere, and you can rent sunshades and loungers for 500 DOP. While there are many beach vendors trying to sell bracelets and small art pieces, a polite “no” is usually enough to deter them.

We brought our own lunch from Punta Cana and no one raised any objections to us enjoying food from elsewhere. Additionally, there’s a small grocery shop (“colmado”) nearby where you can find reasonably priced Presidente beer if you wish to avoid the high prices at beach bars. This sums up how we spent the majority of these three days :).

Day 8: Santo Domingo

The last day of our road trip in this country was dedicated to exploring the capital, as we had an evening flight back. While many visitors choose to spend their days at all-inclusive resorts, exploring the capital is truly a must-do experience in the Dominican Republic. You can find the itinerary we followed in the Colonial City, which houses most of the landmarks, by clicking here. We booked this central hotel in Calle Conde through booking.com.

This concludes our road trip in this Caribbean country! While many travelers are drawn to the Dominican Republic for its resorts and pristine beaches, there’s so much more to discover. Our plan mixes beach days with natural parks and urban landscapes that are frequently overlooked by tourists. It might cost as much as a week-long resort package, but at least it allows you to experience the country as it truly is, and that’s what we travel for.