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A walking tour of the Colonial City in Santo Domingo

The vibrant capital city of the Dominican Republic (D.R.) was officially founded more than 500 years ago in 1498 by Bartholomew Columbus, the brother of Christopher Columbus. Santo Domingo (S.D.) claims the title of being the oldest European-established settlement in the Americas, blending history with modernity on the southern shores of La Hispaniola, the island comprising D.R. and Haiti. The old city, known as the Zona Colonial, offers a glimpse into the city’s past, boasting well-preserved 16th-century buildings and landmarks.

S.D. is one of the main gateways to the country, although its airport has faced increasing competition from the popular Punta Cana. Nonetheless, it remains a must-visit destination for an authentic Caribbean experience that combines history, culture, and hospitality. Most of the key attractions in the old city can be explored in a full day, and they are conveniently situated within walking distance of each other.

While staying in the city center can be more expensive, it offers the advantage of being able to visit all the capital’s highlights on foot. We chose “RIG Casa Conde“, a modest but comfortable and reasonably priced lodging option in the heart of S.D. (Calle el Conde, #11 on our walking itinerary).

Let’s then review our itinerary:

1. Parque Independencia

We began our journey from our hotel on Calle el Conde. From here, our first destination was a public space that played a significant role in the 19th-century fight for independence against Spanish rule. This park is adorned with lush green areas, towering palm trees, and well-maintained gardens.

In the centre stands a monument dedicated to prominent figures in the country’s history. As we approach it, we’re be greeted by three tall statues representing the founding fathers of the D.R.: Juan Pablo Duarte, Francisco del Rosario Sánchez, and Ramon Matías Mella, collectively known as “Los Trinitarios”.

  • Entrance fee: free to visit
  • Expected duration of visit: 15min
Parque Independencia

2. Obelisco de Santo Domingo

Proceeding south to the Malecón, the scenic waterfront promenade of the city, we encounter the Obelisk of S.D., a recognisable symbol of the city. This towering structure was erected to commemorate the centennial celebration of Dominican independence, which was achieved in 1844. The obelisk is adorned with inscriptions and paintings that pay homage to key moments and influential characters in Dominican history.

3. Fuerte San Gil

As we continue along the Malecón to the east, it won’t take more than a couple of minutes to bump into Fuerte San Gil. This fort played a vital role in the defensive system designed to safeguard S.D. from pirate attacks and invasions. While today only the remnants of the defensive walls remain, it’s still a worthwhile pitstop for history buffs.

  • Entrance fee: free
  • Expected duration of visit: 10min

4. Plaza de la Hispanidad (or Plaza de España)

The longest stretch of our circuit takes us along the Malecón and the Ozama River, initially to the east and then northward, leading us to a historical plaza in the heart of the colonial city. This square has remained virtually unchanged since its establishment in the 16th century, retaining the details and elements of the colonial Spanish architecture.

The centrepiece is the Alcazár de Colón, a building that once served as the residence for the son of Christopher Columbus. Although it has been converted into a museum dedicated to the colonial history of Santo Domingo, it’s important to note that it is currently closed, as renovations are underway (2023).

  • Entrance fee: 100 DOP
  • Opening hours: Tue-Sat 9:00-17:00 / Sun 9:00-16:00 / Closed on Mondays
Plaza de España and Alcazar de Colón

5. Monasterio de San Francisco

This monastery dates to the early colonial period, playing a vital role in the spread of Christianity in the Americas and the conversion of indigenous populations. Its construction began in 1506 and spanned about fifty years, making it the first monastery established in the Americas.

A combination of earthquakes, pirate looting, and cyclones unfortunately damaged most of the complex, and today only the ruins remain. Despite the destruction, the church within the complex continues to be a place of worship and is used for religious services. We caught the complex closed, and from what we read it seems that the opening hours are largely unpredictable.

  • Entrance fee: free to visit
  • Opening hours: uncertain

6. Museo de las Casas Reales

This building stands as one of the oldest in S.D., serving as the former seat of Spanish rulers on the island. Today, it’s arguably one of the best museums in the capital. The museum offers a comprehensive exploration of the history, life, and traditions of the inhabitants of this former Spanish colony. It also delves into the profound influence of indigenous and African cultures on the Dominican Republic’s history.

A self-guided tour with a portable audio speaker is available in various languages, and a visit should take about 1h30. In the front courtyard of the museum, you may find an amazing piece: a centuries-old sundial that still faithfully tells the time as the days go by.

  • Entrance fee: 100 DOP (audioguide included)
  • Opening hours: 10:00-18:00 (closed on Mondays)
  • Expected duration of visit: 1h30
One of the museum’s gardens

7. Panteón de la Patria

Located very close to the Museo de las Casas Reales, you’ll discover the Pantheon, a place of great historical significance. Within its walls, notable Dominican heroes have found their final resting place, including Juan Pablo Duarte, one of the country’s founding fathers.

Originally constructed in 1747 as a Jesuit church, it later served as a tobacco warehouse and a theater. It was dictator Trujillo who oversaw its restoration in 1958, transforming it into the mausoleum we see today.

It is designed according to the neoclassical style, with a great facade and towering Greco-Roman columns. Inside, we’ll meet the opulent interiors adorned with marble and frescoes. A colossal chandelier hangs above an eternal flame, which confers solemnity to the Pantheon.

  • Entrance fee: free
  • Opening hours: 9:00-17:00 every day
  • Expected duration of visit: 30min
Panteon de la Patria

8. Fortaleza Ozama

This castle overlooking the Ozama River is one of the few remaining sections of the fortified walls of S.D.. Its strategic placement atop a hill offers commanding views of the Ozama River and the sea, providing an added layer of protection to the city in this crucial area.

Recognised as the oldest military structure of European origin in the Americas, this fortress played a vital role during a time when the D.R. faced threats from English and Dutch pirates. Throughout its history, the castle has served various purposes, including functioning as a courthouse and prison for pirates and politicians. This was the very place where Christopher Columbus sentenced individuals to death, and ironically it was here that Columbus himself would later be imprisoned.

  • Entrance fee: 70 DOP
  • Opening hours: Mon-Sat 9:00-18:30 / Sun 9:00-16:00
  • Expected duration of visit: 45min
Fortaleza Ozama

9. Parque Colón

The Columbus Park serves as the centre and heart of the Colonial City. Here is where you’ll see locals hanging around in weekends, street performers, restaurants, entertainers, cafes and terraces. Dominating the park’s centre is a statue of Christopher Columbus, the namesake of the park. This is where you should rest and have a cold drink while indulging in some people-watching; it is truly worth your time.

The “Catedral Nuestra Señora de la Encarnación”, also known as the “Catedral Primada de América”, stands as an iconic religious building adjacent to the park. Built between 1504-1550, it is one of the first cathedrals in the Americas and a prime example of colonial architecture, blending gothic and baroque elements. It continues to be actively used for religious ceremonies and worship. The complex also houses a small museum showcasing a collection of sacred art.

  • Entrance fee: free admission
  • Opening hours: 9:00-16:30 (closed on Sundays)
  • Expected duration of visit: 30min
Detail from the “Catedral Nuestra Señora de la Encarnación”

10. Iglesia Conventual de los Dominicos

Not far from Parque Colón, we may find another outstanding piece of colonial architecture. This church was built following the arrival of the Dominican Order to the D.R. and is among one of the earliest in the Americas, being part of a larger complex which includes a convent. The convent later served as a university, the first in the American continent.

The front facade of the church is a fine example of baroque design and stands out as a particularly beautiful feature.

  • Entrance fee: free
  • Opening hours: 8:30-12:30 and 15:00-18:00
  • Expected duration of visit: 15-30min
Front facade – Iglesia Conventual de los Dominicos

11. Calle El Conde

Going back to Parque Colón, we may notice a pedestrian street that departs West to Parque Independencia, our first stop. This is Calle El Conde, one of the most iconic and vibrant streets in the capital (and where our hotel was located).

This alleyway is flanked by well preserved colonial-style buildings showcasing colourful facades. On the ground floor, we usually find either a souvenir shop, a café or a restaurant. Visitors can find a wide range of goods, including jewellery, clothing, crafts, and other authenthic Dominican souvenirs.

Calle el Conde also often features live music, street performers, and cultural events. It’s a hub of local culture, where we may stumble upon musicians, dance performances or art exhibitions.

Architectural details from Calle El Conde

And so we reach the end of our journey through the highlights of S.D.. It is a captivating city where ancient buildings and architectural details in the colonial city transport visitors through time. The art shows, exhibitions and dances performed on the streets add a special dimension to the experience, making it truly a remarkable one. S.D. is well worth it, so even if you find yourself on an all-inclusive resort nearby, do not forget to add a day trip to the Dominican capital.

Planning to visit other sites in the country? Then you may also want to check our 8-day road trip in the D.R. to help you organise your visit.

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