Understanding:
Most countries in the Middle East embody a past filled with history, where many civilisations thrived in different time lapses. Syria is no exception, showcasing evidence of human presence as far back as 10000 BCE. The first recorded settlers are, among others, the Canaanites, Phoenicians and Hittites.
Alexander the Great later conquered the territory, leading to the Hellenistic rule. Romans soon took over and shaped the cities their way. Today we can still see the greek and roman influences in ruins such as Palmyra, Apamea and Busra, but also in today’s Damascus where the old city is divided in four quadrants by the Cardo Maximus and Decumanus Maximus. Romans also brought Christianity, mainly to Antioch (now Turkey) and coastal areas of Syria and Lebanon.
Some centuries later, the country became the battleground for Crusaders and Islamic Caliphates. This was a period where castles started to proliferate here. Krak des Chevaliers is the most jaw-dropping crusader fortress of the Middle East and we can still visit it today.
In recent years, Syria has faced significant challenges. The country is commonly associated with a never-ending conflict that’s been ravaging the country. After the Arab Spring, factions and militias started to pop everywhere. At one moment, it seemed that the conflict was hopelessly lost for the government. However, the tide turned with foreign help for the government, on one side, and the fierce resistance of the Kurds, in the East.
Today, the government controls slightly more than half of the country, and to visit this part of Syria is quite possible and reasonably safe. However, the security situation can change, so travellers should stay informed about the latest updates and travel advisories. You may read our full experience here.
Geography:
Lying on the coast of the Mediterranean Sea, this country is bordered by Turkey, Lebanon, Iraq, Jordan and Israel. Syria spans through a variety of landscapes. The coastal area is hilly, irregular and fertile, encompassing a mountain range that extends South to Lebanon. East of the main cities (Aleppo, Hama, Homs and Damascus), we progressively encounter a desert area that borders Iraq and Jordan.
The coast experiences a typical Mediterranean climate, with mild winters and dry summers, while the inland areas have colder winters and extremely hot summers.
Basic Info:
- Capital: Damascus
- Population: 21,3M (2021 estimate)
- Language: Arabic
- Religion: 87% Muslim; 10% Christian; 3% Druze
- Currency: Syrian Pound (SYP). As of August 2023:
- 1 USD = 2,512.03 SYP
- 1 EUR = 2,733.89 SYP
- Plugs:
- type C, E and L (compatible with EU devices)
When to go:
The best times to visit Syria are April-May and September-October, when you can enjoy pleasant weather and avoid the scorching Summer heat and the colder, shorter days of Winter.
We chose to visit in April, and fortunately, it coincided with the Ramadan period when people fast during the day and enjoy themselves after dusk. Although some travelers might be concerned about the limited options for lunch during Ramadan, we found that in Syria, this is not a problem. Fast-food stalls offering shawarma and manakish (salty pastries) were widely available, and Christian-owned restaurants remained open. Wandering the bustling streets in the evening is quite an experience; everyone is celebrating the end of fasting and appears genuinely joyful!
Visa policy (simplified):
All nationalities are officially required to apply for a one-month visa in advance, but unofficial exceptions are sometimes granted to citizens of certain Arabic countries. Israeli citizens are banned from entering Syria. US citizens were also banned until recently, but now they are subject to the standard visa application process.
Visa fees vary depending on your nationality. EU citizens typically pay between 50-100€, while citizens of Canada, Australia, New Zealand, and the UK pay around 130€. Currently, visiting Syria as a tourist is only allowed with an official tour guide and requires permission from the Ministry. Therefore, all visa processing paperwork is typically handled by your local agency.
Budget:
Independent travel to Syria is currently not possible. Travel arrangements must be made through a local company, which will handle visas, accommodations, and permissions. We chose Marrota (you can visit their website by clicking here) because they offered the best budget option for our desired itinerary.
Prices may range from 200-300€ for a short visit to Damascus and a few additional sites, typically spanning 2-4 days, to approximately 1500€ for a comprehensive tour that covers all the major attractions in Syria. We opted for the most extensive option as Middle East and Central Asia are our favourite regions in the world.
Money:
Syria primarily operates on a cash basis. Therefore, it’s unlikely that you’ll be able to use credit or debit cards for payments, except in some hotels and larger restaurants in major cities. Please note that pre-paid cards such as Revolut do not work in Syria, making it one of the few countries where they are not accepted.
Engaging in transactions with foreign currency is illegal, so avoid paying for anything in your home currency. We brought cash in euros and dollars, which our tour guide exchanged for Syrian Pounds. Alternatively, you can exchange money directly at a bank.
All expenses for hotels, transportation, and museum tickets were covered by the tour, which we paid in cash. We then do not know the exact price of any of those.
SIM cards:
MTN is the only company that offers SIM cards. We didn’t get one because most hotels and even average restaurants had a good wireless connection, but obtaining a SIM card should be a relatively straightforward process.
We sometimes use Airalo to get an eSIM for foreign countries. However, deals for Syria are not available on the app.
What to wear:
Syria has a predominantly Muslim population, so visitors are advised to dress modestly, especially when visiting religious sites. In such places, shorts are not allowed for men, and Abayas (long black dresses with a hood) are available for lending at the entrance for women.
While wandering the streets, women do not need to cover their heads; however, wearing a long dress or loose-fitting clothing is considered appropriate and should not cause any issues. You may find some locals wearing crop tops, strapless shirts, skirts, and shorts but we do not encourage visitors to do the same.
Safety:
Despite Syria’s negative reputation, we never felt even remotely unsafe. Typically, we arrived at our accommodation by mid-afternoon and then explored the streets on our own during dusk and at night, encountering no issues at all. Of course, the occasional pickpocket may still exist, as in any place.
Currently, intercity travel is not possible without a tour guide. Roads generally appear calm and safe, with military checkpoints every few kilometers. Military personnel at checkpoints were generally helpful, and the only bribe our guides had to pay was at the border between Lebanon and Syria.
Tipping:
Tipping is not customary in Syria. Nevertheless, higher-end restaurants in big cities are starting to follow European standards, with 5-10% of the total amount being very well accepted.
Accommodation:
We stayed at various hotels, ranging from more basic accommodations to very beautiful boutique hotels like the Beit Al Mamlouka Hotel in Damascus. All of these hotels included breakfast and were arranged through the tour company, so we don’t have the exact prices paid. Syrian properties may not be available for search on major websites such as booking.com.