Syria has been through a lot recently, and is commonly associated with a never-ending conflict that’s been ravaging the country. The conflict arose from the Arab Spring movement that, in 2011, demanded changes in political leaderships throughout the Middle East. In Syria, the government answered with a crackdown on insurgents that further raised the bar on violence.
Factions and militias popped everywhere. ISIS is an acronym we all remember and probably the most prominent of those armed groups. At one moment, it seemed that the conflict was hopelessly lost for the government and the country would succumb. However, the tide turned with foreign help for the government, on one side, and the fierce resistance of the Kurds, in the East.
Today, the government controls slightly more than half of the country, militias still rest on the Northwest (Governorate of Idlib), Turkish troops patrol the northern border, and Kurds control the desert from the Euphrates to the East (see map below from The Economist).
So what’s possible to see of Syria, in 2023?
As a matter of fact, a lot! The most important cities and archeological sites are nowadays controlled by the government, and a visit is quite possible. Moreover, the sites are not as destroyed as one might think after watching the news on western media.
However, a visit with a local tour operator is still mandatory as per government rules. After speaking with some people that had recently visited the country, we chose Marrota Travel & Tourism as our tour operator and their “Everything Possible” tour. They are the biggest operator in Syria and we can only speak favourably about the company, our guide and our driver.
Let’s address the following map to acknowledge what we visited on this trip. Further below, you’ll find a complete itinerary with a brief description of the places and monuments we saw.
Day 0: arrival
The most convenient way to enter Syria today is by land. International sanctions hamper the country’s recovery in many ways. They 1) make it hard to find decent flights and 2) increase the price of the few flights available. The solution is to land in Beirut, drive 65km to the border, get your passport stamped and proceed for 50km more to Damascus. This should take about 3h. The border crossing shall be smooth and quick, as the tour agency usually deals with all the necessary paperwork beforehand.
In our case, we arrived in Damascus just in time for dinner. After checking in at a quirky Damascene house converted into a hotel, we left alone to explore the Old Town and grab something to eat. We treated ourselves with an amazing kebab from the locally famous “Al Burj”, as recommended by our hosts at the hotel.
You’re now probably wondering if it is safe to wander in Syria after dusk. We were strongly advised to do so by our tour guide, to see how things really were and how people really lived and behaved. The truth is that we never felt insecure or threatened, and even had some fun during our night walks.
Day 1: Damascus
The capital of Syria breathes history on every street, as we’re speaking of one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. It was conquered, destroyed and rebuilt by many empires, and still flourishes today against all odds.
We explored Damascus on the first and last days of this tour. On the first day, we went on a guided tour of the old town, visiting its most remarkable attractions: the National Museum, the souqs, the Umayyad Mosque, El-Azm Palace, and the Chapel of Saint Ananias. We saved the Sayyidah Zainab Mosque, which is distant from the centre, for the last day.
We prepared a full dedicated blog post on how we experienced Damascus. You can read it by clicking here.
Day 2: from Damascus to Homs
This day, we left the comfort of the capital to advance north. We thought we’d feel more insecure outside Damascus, but our minds were proven wrong. We found military checkpoints every once in a while, which may feel a bit frightening, but those soldiers are there for our own security. Things felt almost like Iraqi Kurdistan (you may read all our blog posts on Kurdistan here).
As we drove towards Homs, we made strategic stops in Seidnaya, Maaloula and Deir Mar Mousa Al-Habashi.
2.1. Saidnaya
We arrived to this small town 30km after leaving Damascus. The picturesque irregular surroundings made it the perfect location for the Monastery of Our Lady of Saidnaya, our main objective visiting the city. This religious complex is Christian and believed to be first built in the 6th century. It houses icons and artefacts with a strong spiritual importance, and every year many Christians from Syria pilgrimage here.
2.2. Maaloula
Another small village north of Damascus known for its historical and religious significance. Built into the irregular mountain cliffs, Maaloula’s isolation from neighbouring cities allowed it to preserve its unique linguistic heritage.
This is one of the few remaining places in the world where Aramaic, the ancient language spoken by Jesus Christ, is still spoken by a small Christian community. This linguistic tradition has attracted researchers interested in ancient languages and cultures.
Being a Christian-majority city, Maaloula is also home to several ancient monasteries. ISIS targeted the city in 2014 and eventually took control of it for some months, destroying several religious artefacts and relics. The Mar Sarkis monastery was heavily hit during those times, but already rebuilt as of today. Mar Takla monastery is another important monastery for Christian Syrians, and both are important pilgrimage sites for these people.
2.3. Deir Mar Mousa Al-Habashi
Deir Mar Musa al-Habashi, translated as the “Monastery of Saint Moses the Abyssinian”, is another site with great historical importance. It dates back to the 6th century and has been linked to both Christian and Islamic worship throughout history. It eventually became definitely affiliated with Christian belief some centuries ago, and remains another important beacon of Christianity in Syria.
Its architectural style is rather unique, showcasing influences from Byzantine, Roman, and Islamic periods. The mosaics and frescoes are impressive and well-preserved, making it a must-go site in the country. It is as secluded as it gets: a few Western visitors even come here for months seeking spiritual retreat and isolation.
2.4. Homs
We finally arrived in Homs by mid-afternoon. During the conflict in Syria, this city has experienced significant damage and destruction, which can still be seen today. However, the destruction only affected some neighbourhoods, with a fair amount of the city still remaining as it was before the conflict.
We were given autonomy for the rest of the day and wandered by ourselves around the city centre, where we had dinner. It’s important to notice that, in spite of the apparent destruction of some buildings, the city still has a decent nightlife and we never felt unsafe in Homs.
Day 3: from Homs to Aleppo
3.1. Homs (continued)
The day started early, as we still had some sites in Homs to check. Our first stop was the Church of Saint Mary of the Girdle, a historic Christian church filled with history. It is dedicated to the Virgin Mary and is revered by both Christians and Muslims.
The temple houses the girdle of Virgin Mary, hence its name. It is exhibited on the ground floor of the church. The underground floor hosts the original church, built some millennia ago and where the first Christians used to pray around 50-60 CE.
The next stop was Khalid ibn al-Walid Mosque, named after a commander that helped to end the Byzantine rule in Syria. The destruction on this neighbourhood is staggering and readily noticed, and even the mosque did not avoid damage during the conflict. Today, reconstruction work still goes on but the mosque is already visitable and much of it is brand new. The shrine that contains Khalid’s tomb dates all the way back to the 11th century, and is considered to be a significant pilgrimage center in the country.
3.2. Hama
Hama is another ancient city showcasing a rich historical and cultural heritage. In 1982, factions in Hama uprised against the government, and it ended with a siege to the city and a massacre. During the turmoil of the Arab Spring and the consequent Syrian conflict, Hama stood relatively calm as the memories of 1982 still lasted. That may be the reason why the city was barely hit during the conflict.
The most iconic symbols of the city are its ancient waterwheels, known as norias. These are engineering marvels that have been used for several centuries to draw water from the Orontes River and irrigate the surrounding lands. Today, all the seventeen norias of Hama are not in use anymore.
Day 4: Aleppo
We arrived to the historical city of Aleppo late in the afternoon of the previous day. Formerly known as a beacon of commerce and civilisation in the Middle East, this city suffered a lot during the conflict. As if it was not enough, an earthquake hit the city in early 2023, damaging some infrasctructure.
We prepared a fully dedicated article to the city of Aleppo, which you may read here.
Day 5: From Aleppo to Latakia
Our journey then brought us to northeastern Syria, really close to the frontline of the conflict with the opposition in Idlib.
5.1. Apamea
We may find this Greco-Roman wonder a mere 5-10km from today’s frontline, which explains the heavy militarisation present in nearby villages. It is however open to tourism since June 2022.
Apamea was an important military and commerce hub during the Greek and Roman eras. It was founded around 300 BCE by Seleucus, a general of Alexander the Great, and named after his wife, Apama. Later, in 64 CE, the city fell into Roman hands but retained its importance in the region. The city was known to have hosted more than 100,000 inhabitants during these periods.
The desegregation of the Roman Empire (Byzantine Period) saw the city losing influence due to frequent Persian raids and attacks, which caused a decrease in affluence along these trading routes. The Arab period was the final blow to Apamea, as geopolitics and the establishment of different trade routes led to its irreversible abandonment.
We can still witness the grandeur of Apamea today. The impressive colonnaded street which runs for nearly 2km is the most important landmark here, but other typical sections of Roman cities can still be found. During the Syrian conflict, the ancient city was barely touched by artillery but many treasure hunters came here to try their luck. The holes they dug can still be seen as of now.
5.2. Saladin Citadel
Located atop a hill overlooking Latakia, this castle is a popular tourist site among Syrians. It was likely built during the rule of Salah al-Din (Saladin), an important Muslim military leader who recaptured Jerusalem from the Crusaders.
The fortress preserved a prominent role in the military defense of the region from the 12th to the 19th century. In the last two centuries it faced neglect, but efforts have been made to restore it in the last decades. The earthquake of February 2023 unfortunately opened some cracks in its walls, and it has been closed since. We could only see it from a viewpoint.
5.3. Ugarit
This ancient port city-state near Latakia remains a mystery for researchers. This civilisation likely emerged and was very wealthy during the Bronze Age, engaging in trading activities with the Hittites, Egyptians and Mesopotamians. However, they mysteriously ceased to exist after being attacked by the so-called “Sea People”.
One of the most important legacies of the Ugaritic people is their alphabet, one of the earliest on record. Excavations found tablets with the full cuneiform alphabet, which provided invaluable insight into the writings and lifestyle of Ugarit. However, still no one knows how the civilisation emerged or disappeared.
Day 6: from Latakia to Tartous
After having a good night of sleep in Latakia, we soon departed south for the coastal city of Tartous.
6.1. Qardaha (Tomb of Hafez Al-Assad)
We can find this mausoleum in a small city on the hills near Latakia. It is a memorial site dedicated to Hafez al-Assad, the former president of Syria, who held office from 1971 to 2000. He is considered the architect of modern Syria, significantly influencing the political landscape of the country and the broader Middle East.
The impact he left on the country is so profound that many Syrians come here to pay their respects at the tomb. Nevertheless, it’s important to note that his 30 years of presidency were not universally acclaimed, and the perception of his rule varies significantly among the people.
6.2. Marqab Castle
One of the many Crusaders’ castles in Syria, overlooking the city of Baniyas and the Mediterranean, and featuring both Crusader and Islamic influences. It held utmost importance for the Islamic kingdoms, as it was the first to notice and signal an attack from the sea.
6.3. Amrit
Very close to Tartous, the ruins of Amrit (formerly known as Marathos) are another UNESCO site. The city was first established by Phoenicians, who built a port on this promontory of land. As the Phoenicians didn’t have a proper capital, this was one of their city-states just like Byblos, Tyre or Sidon (Lebanon).
The most impressive landmark is the Temple of the Obelisks, featuring a central tower surrounded by water and a square of monoliths. This temple stands as evidence of the religious ceremonies that took place during the Phoenician era. The city-state was later taken by the Romans, as demonstrated by structures such as villas, baths, and mosaics.
6.4. Arwad
Arwad is the only island in Syria, a small and walkable piece of land off the coast of Tartous. It was also a former Phoenician settlement, and even today we can observe the ruins of the Phoenician defensive wall here. The island is primarily inhabited by prosperous fishermen and their families. Unfortunately, the streets are poorly maintained, with garbage and rubble scattered around.
Day 7: Krak des Chevaliers
The main objective of this day was to visit Krak des Chevaliers, one of the most well-preserved Crusaders’ castle in the Middle East. We departed from Tartous early in the morning but first we had some stops along the way.
7.1. Masyaf Castle
Another Crusaders’ castle, better preserved than the aforementioned Marqab Castle. After the fall of the Crusaders, this fortress was famously known as a stronghold for the Ismailis, a sect of Shia Muslims, and the center of their activities in the region.
It is a popular destination for domestic tourism, located near the center of Masyaf and offering great views over the city.
7.2. Safita Tower
A tall, rectangular structure that was likely the centrepiece for a broader fortified complex. Built in the 13th century, it overlooks a vast mass of land in the Syrian mountains. Today the ground floor is used as a church, and the top floors hold an exhibition of the tower’s history.
7.3. Krak des Chevaliers
Definitely one of the highlights of this trip and one of the most remarkable sights in Syria, this medieval castle stands out as one of the largest in the Middle East, showcasing a perfectly preserved example of Crusader military architecture and engineering.
Kurdish settlers initially constructed a fortress atop this hill in the 11th century. Later, it was captured and bestowed as a gift to a Catholic military order, which undertook extensive renovations and reinforcements during the 12th century. Given its substantial size, the castle held a central role in the military strategies of the Crusaders in the Middle East.
The fortified walls, gates, and arrow slits all played crucial roles in the castle’s defense. Within its walls, residential rooms, cisterns, dining halls, a chapel, and courtyards provided the necessities of life. A guided tour of the castle offers insights into how its construction and compartmentalization were meticulously planned and executed.
As the years unfolded, the castle eventually fell into the hands of the Mamluks during the 13th century. Despite enduring numerous sieges and battles, the castle remains remarkably well preserved to this day.
Day 8: Palmyra
A huge day followed, on which we slept near Krak des Chevaliers, went to the desert to see Palmyra, and finally arrived to Damascus for a good night of sleep.
Nestled within the Syrian desert, Palmyra stands as one of the most renowned Roman cities in the Middle East. Originally established as an oasis settlement, Palmyra flourished under the influence of Roman rule, transforming into a prosperous city celebrated for its opulence and cultural richness.
We prepared a fully dedicated article to Palmyra, which you may read here.
Day 9: Day trip to Busra
9.1. Busra
From Damascus, we embarked on a journey to a UNESCO World Heritage Site nestled in southern Syria. Bosra (also known as Busra) emerged as a significant Roman urban center, subsequently evolving into a pivotal Islamic settlement. It remains today as a testament to the ebb and flow of civilisations in this pivotal region. During the Syrian Conflict, this southern region of Syria strongly favoured the opposition.
The standout gem of Bosra is its Roman theatre, renowned for its architecture and capacity, able of host thousands of spectators. Intriguingly, the theatre was used as a stronghold during the Islamic caliphates and fortified by an encircling defensive wall, lending it a distinctive character. This unique feature is what renders it the world’s best conserved Roman theatre.
The city proudly showcases an array of other Roman remnants: temples, fortifications, dwellings, and Roman baths. However, amidst these ruins, we may find holes dug by locals trying to unearth hidden treasures, like ancient gold coins.
Moreover, the city holds a special place in Islamic tradition, as it is believed to have been traversed by Prophet Mohammed during his youth years.
9.2. Sayyidah Zainab Mosque
On the way back to Damascus, we visited this beautiful Shia mosque. This monument is included in the complete article about the capital of Syria that you may read here.
And so we finally arrived to the end of our Syrian trip. We still spent some more hours in the souqs of Damascus before saying goodbye to Syria and head back to Lebanon. While the country’s name may evoke fears of war, the reality we found was quite different and everyone was very kind to us.
Do keep in mind that the government controls over half of the country, and key cities and sites are available to visit and less damaged than what’s portrayed in western media. We can assure Syria became one of our favourite countries in the world, and hopefully we’ll be back someday. 🙂