Nestled in the heart of the country, the most populated city of Syria (~2 million) has many stories to tell. Recognised as one of the oldest continuously inhabited settlements of the world, Aleppo has been changing hands since the beginning of times.
The importance of Aleppo gravitates around its strategic location, in a crossroads of empires, where caravans used to stop for rest and trade. It is said that one day of trade here used to equal one month in Cairo. While it may not be literally like that, it gives us the idea of how wealthy and rich the city and its inhabitants once were.
During the Syrian Conflict, the city’s endurance was once again put to test, like many times before. From 2012-2017, Aleppo was in the hands of rebel insurgents backed by ISIS. The covered souqs and tunnels in the old city and citadel were a perfect hideout for the opposition and made it hard for the government to take back the metropolis. The tables would turn in September 2016, when the Syrian government launched a major offensive to retake the city, supported by Russian airstrikes.
The war and the Earthquake of 2023 left scars in the city that are still present. Many fled, others stayed but a significant proportion lost everything and live in poverty of with very little. Despite the challenges, Aleppo stands. Some sights were damaged but sounds and flavours are still there to be discovered, and people are as warm and welcoming as ever.
First impressions
We arrived in Aleppo just before sunset, on the third day of our Syria tour. After checking in and dropping our luggage, we were advised by our guide to go outside and explore the neighbourhood of Al-Ourouba, very close to our hotel and where life happens after dark.
We followed the suggestion and decided to walk there. The streets were dimly lit but occasional passing cars illuminated the surroundings. Having experienced similar ambiance in our previous nights in Damascus and Homs, we felt accustomed and at ease. The warm glow of food stands and restaurants emerged before long, enticing us with their inviting lights.
Al-Ourouba has a wide range of restaurants and street food. Amo Hamid is a takeaway restaurant known for its falafels that’s on the top of our guide’s preferences, and seemingly of many Aleppans. Fruit and food stands are scattered on these streets, as well as many sports and shisha bars. Most of the businesses are crowded and sometimes it’s hard to find a place to seat. Cloth stores are open until late, still receiving guests long after the sun sets.
Aleppo may still not be in its best shape today, in the aftermath of a deadly conflict. It is however recovering, and hopefully it can reach the grandeur of past times in a few years’ time. So, what’s there to see now?
1. Souqs
The heart and soul of every Middle Eastern city. They have existed here for centuries and played a crucial role in the region’s trade and development, offering a glimpse into the city’s cultural heritage. It’s hard not to get lost in these maze-like streets and alleyways.
The architecture of the souqs is often a mix of traditional Arab and Ottoman styles, characterized by arched ceilings and decorative motifs. Originally, shops were arranged according to the products they sold, but in the aftermath of the conflict, everything became more chaotic. Many merchants fled the city, and those who remained occupied the empty stalls.
Being the most war-affected section of Aleppo, the covered bazaars are undergoing a deep restoration process. A few maintain their original aspect, while others are still in ruins. A number of them are currently being restored, and we may already witness the completion of some alleys that are ready to welcome entrepreneurs.
2. Soap Factory
Aleppo is renowned for its soap, which was one of the city’s most famous exports before the conflict. Traditional Aleppo soap is made from olive oil, serving as the base, laurel oil, providing the soap’s distinctive fragrance, and bicarbonate.
The mixture is boiled in large reservoirs and then dried and aged for several months until it reaches its final form. It is usually shaped into large, rectangular blocks with a rustic surface. The color varies from brownish to olive-green, depending on the relative quantity of its ingredients and the duration of ageing.
3. Citadel
The most iconic landmark in the city of Aleppo, strategically placed atop a large hill in the centre. City life developed around this structure, which has had military and cultural relevance for millennia.
The fortress is protected by massive, fortified walls that converge at the historical Bab Al-Faraj gate, along with isolated towers that further increased its defensive abilities. Aleppo has been disputed over time by many civilisations, which adorned the citadel with their own architectural traces. Today it features various historical periods of the region, with elements from the Greek, Roman, Byzantine, and Ayyubid periods, for example.
Unfortunately, it has suffered damage and destruction during the Syrian conflict. And after the earthquake from February 2023, authorities closed the citadel for some months for safety concerns, which prevented us from visiting. Hopefully we can make it the next time we visit Syria!
4. Great Mosque of Aleppo
Also known as the Umayyad Mosque of Aleppo, this is undoubtedly one of the most significant religious landmarks in the city. Its construction began during the early Umayyad period, making it one of the oldest and largest mosques on the planet (8th century).
Unfortunately, the mosque suffered damage during the conflict, including its distinctive minaret. However, reconstruction work is progressing, and it is soon expected to be open for visitors. Despite the ongoing construction, we were fortunate enough to be invited to enter and have a glimpse of it.
The mosque perfectly embodies early Islamic design, showcasing items from the Umayyad, Abbasid, Mamluk, and Ottoman architecture. The courtyard is wide, surrounded by colonnades, and encompasses a fountain in the centre. As of April 2023, the minaret (Qasimiyah Minaret), is well advanced and nearing completion.
5. Aleppo National Museum
The Aleppo National Museum is one of the country’s most prominent museums, housing a rich collection of artefacts that span the region’s ancient history and heritage. Here we bump into a wide range of items (pottery, sculptures, jewellery, textiles…) unearthed during archaeological excavations in the territories of Al-Khabour, Euphrates, Idlib and Aleppo.
The museum was hit by aerial missiles in 2016, but fortunately most of the pieces had been moved to a safer location beforehand. These invaluable artefacts hold significant historical and cultural value, and many were thankfully spared from damage during the Syrian Conflict.
Despite the challenges, the museum reopened its doors to the public in 2019. However, the earthquake of 2023 forced it to briefly close for a few weeks. We were lucky enough to visit, as it reopened the day before our arrival to Aleppo, allowing us to explore its impressive collection.
And that’s it! This resumes what we’ve seen in Aleppo, a city with a glorious past that recently faced hard times. In spite of everything, we believe that the worse is far behind and sooner than later we’ll witness the resurgence of Aleppo as a popular tourist hub in the Middle East.