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Traveling to Antarctica in 2023

Why go?

Antarctica remains one of the last untouched wilderness areas on Earth. Breathtaking white landscapes and magnificent ice formations compose this otherworldly environment, unlike anywhere else on Earth. The raw and untouched beauty of the continent makes a trip to Antarctica a once-in-a-lifetime experience and a remarkable achievement for every avid traveler.

We shall also recall the diverse range of wildlife, including penguins, seals, whales, and seabirds. We had the chance to observe these incredible creatures up close in their natural habitat. Witnessing thousands of penguins waddling across the ice or experiencing the sight of a massive humpback whale feeding is truly unparalleled.

Visiting Antarctica is a bucketlist-worthy accomplishment for many. Stepping foot on the seventh continent is undoubtedly a memorable milestone in one’s life. It represents a personal challenge and an opportunity to explore an inhospitable part of the world.

Setting foot in Antarctica

Adventurous travelers will find a wide array of thrilling outdoor activities. Guided hikes, kayaking through icy waters, and even overnight camping on the continent are all possibilities! There’s also the opportunity to take a polar plunge into the icy waters for those daring enough.

Photography geeks will love the landscapes and unique wildlife providing an ideal backdrop for every frame. The dramatic lighting and ethereal ice formations can yield endless possibilities for one-of-a-kind photos.

How to get there?

Most people, including ourselves, choose to embark on a vessel departing from Ushuaia, Argentina. This option is the easiest due to the availability of cruises and the proximity to Antarctica. It takes approximately 48 hours to reach the seventh continent through the Drake Passage. These cruises are also the most affordable and frequent.

Vessels departing from South Africa, New Zealand, Chile, or Australia are also available. Trips departing from Australia, for instance, take around 5 days to reach Antarctica, making these cruises longer (25-35 days). However, they offer the unique opportunity to witness the vertical cliffs of the Ross Sea.

The second most popular option is to travel by plane from Argentina/Chile, which cuts the trip to 2h instead of 2 days by sea. However, this option is generally more expensive and may diminish the overall experience and anticipated excitement of reaching Antarctica. The journey itself provides opportunities to meet fellow cruise mates, observe wildlife, icebergs, and enjoy the cleanest air you’ll ever breathe. Air travel is also less reliable, and delays are not uncommon due to weather conditions that may not favor departures or landings.

Should I add the Falklands and South Georgia to my itinerary?

The short answer is “yes, definitely.” Although adding these destinations will extend the cruise and increase the price tag, the landscapes and wildlife seen in South Georgia are virtually unbeatable. You’ll have the chance to capture photos of different species of penguins and enrich your overall experience.

Our cruise included 2 full days in the Falklands. We were privileged enough to witness black-browed albatross nesting sites, penguins relaxing on secluded sandy beaches bathed in clear blue water, and the striking contrast between the green hills and polar wildlife. Port Stanley, the picturesque capital, is inhabited by a few thousand people and also worth the visit.

We also spent 4 full days in South Georgia. This island is home to some of the largest king penguin colonies on the planet. The scenery is unmatched, with clear blue seas, pale white glaciers, snow-capped mountains, pristine rivers, green spotty grass, and penguin colonies stretching as far as the eye can see. We’d say it pays off to add these two stops to an Antarctic cruise!

Do I need any kind of visa?

Antarctica is considered an apolitical territory, thus not a country. You’ll just need a visa for the country you’re traveling to Antarctica from. As EU citizens, for instance, we just needed a stamp to enter Argentina. It’s important to note that the company organising your trip to Antarctica needs to have a permit to take tourists there, but this is something you don’t need to worry about.

Falkland Islands chose not to be a de facto independent country, as they rely on the UK for defense. South Georgia, on the other hand, is a British overseas territory. Regardless of nationality, all cruise ship passengers are given an exception and stamped in when visiting both territories. This applies even if they would normally require a visa to enter the UK.

Best time to travel to Antarctica

The season begins early in November, as the days lengthen in the Southern Hemisphere. The ice starts to break up, allowing visitors to be among the first to set foot on the pristine snow. During this time, wildlife returns to their breeding grounds, and it is possible to witness the mating season of penguins and seals.

In December, the days become even longer, providing a great opportunity for landings. Penguin chicks begin to hatch, and it is a joy to observe these tiny and clumsy babies. However, it’s important to be cautious around male fur seals as they can be aggressive during their mating season. December also offers a unique chance to celebrate Christmas and New Year’s Eve surrounded by icebergs.

King penguin chick. While more common in December, we could still see some in January

While it is more common to see King penguin chicks in December, there is still a chance to spot them in January. During our visit, we encountered many penguin chicks, baby seals, and even witnessed albatross chicks. Humpback whales are frequently sighted, and the days are at their longest. It’s worth noting, though, that good weather is never guaranteed in Antarctica.

In February the ice recedes and you can go further into the polar circle. It’s also the best season for whale watching. Penguin colonies are bustling as the chicks become more active in their society.

By March the season is wearing down, with lower temperatures and shorter days. Penguins and seals are still active, but whales begin their migration back north.

Some beaches in South Georgia host hundreds of thousands of king penguins

Budget

A journey to Antarctica is generally considered a luxury trip and is not typically budget-friendly. The cost can vary significantly depending on factors such as the duration of the trip, accommodation type, transportation, additional activities, and the specific month of travel.

Shorter, direct trips from Ushuaia to the Antarctic Peninsula tend to be the most affordable option, with prices starting at around €6000 for an 8-10 day cruise. If you choose to add destinations like the Falkland Islands and South Georgia to your itinerary, the duration of the trip will increase by another 8-10 days, effectively doubling the price. Departures from South Africa or Oceania take longer to reach Antarctica, making them more expensive.

When it comes to accommodation, there are options to suit various types of travelers. Shared quadruple rooms are typically the most economical, while single cabins are more expensive. Cabins with windows are considered more desirable and thus come at a higher cost compared to porthole cabins.

Activities such as zodiac cruising, diving, kayaking, or camping can be included in your cruise package, but they may also be offered as optional extras. It’s important to check what’s included, as these activities can be quite expensive in Antarctica.

Zodiac cruising in Antarctica

The month you’re travelling in is also important. January and February are the most sought after months, and consequently more expensive. Celebrating Christmas and New Year’s Eve on the Southern Ocean can be a unique experience, which is why prices for cruises during these dates are typically higher.

Moreover, there are additional mandatory expenses to take into account. Travel insurance is a necessity, as reputable companies require it for your own protection. Purchasing or renting appropriate gear is essential due to the extreme cold conditions in Antarctica. Gratuities for the crew are customary and should be considered. Lastly, it’s important to factor in any pre or post-trip accommodation and transportation costs.

Safety

A cruise to Antarctica is generally considered safe as long as you are in good health and physically fit. The main risks typically arise from the extreme weather conditions and the potential hazards of walking on wet, slippery decks, icy surfaces, and embarking/disembarking from zodiacs (small rubber speedboats used for shore transfers).

A special health insurance that includes evacuation and repatriation is usually required. We did ours through WorldTrips (click here) and had no issues on acceptance. The cost of the insurance can vary depending on factors such as age and any pre-existing medical conditions.

This is not an ideal destination for older or physically unfit people. However, we met some seniors who, in spite of their difficulties, still managed to experience and benefit from the trip. In any case, there’s a doctor on board, and the ship can act as a primary care hospital in the event of an emergency. If a health issue arises that cannot be adequately addressed on the ship, the vessel will return to a suitable port. However, it may take 2-3 days to reach a hospital, so it’s important to be cautious and mindful of our own condition.

It’s advisable to bring seasick medication, even if you have never experienced motion sickness before. The Drake Passage can be quite rough to cross, unlike anything you’ve ever experienced on a boat.

Biosecurity procedures

All these territories have strict protocols in place to protect their fragile ecosystems from contamination by foreign organisms. These protocols are enforced by the International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators (IAATO) and followed by cruise operators.

Before embarking, passengers have their personal belongings, including clothing, equipment, and bags inspected. This ensures that no prohibited items or contaminants are brought on board.

Our vessel, the Hondius

Passengers typically land with rubber boots provided by the cruise company. These must be cleaned and disinfected before each landing. Cleaning stations are usually set up on board the ship for this purpose, and staff will help you clean all your equipment, including clothes, bags and cameras.

Passengers are instructed to maintain a respectful distance from wildlife to avoid disturbing or stressing the animals. This also helps to minimize any potential transmission of diseases between humans and wildlife.

Our experience

Our Southern Ocean trip was an eighteen-day cruise operated by Oceanwide Expeditions and departed from Ushuaia, Argentina, in January 2023. We were absolutely thrilled for this one, as it was initially meant to be in 2021 but covid19 ruined our plans. A number of companies offers cruise options to visit Antarctica. We preferred Oceanwide because:

1. Conservation efforts dictate that only 100 people from each ship can land at a time in Antarctica (this does not apply to South Georgia or the Falklands). The expedition ships ran by this company typically accommodate 140-150 tourists. As a result, the group was divided into two equal parts, with one group participating in a zodiac cruise along the shore while the other group landed. The groups would then swap on shore, allowing us to maximize our opportunities for landings.

2. Possibility to explore South Georgia, the Falklands and the South Orkneys. Visiting this southern territories is a lifetime opportunity… why shouldn’t we make the most of it? The inclusion of the subantarctic islands significantly enhanced the diversity of wildlife and landscapes we encountered during our journey. As mentioned earlier, we highly recommend incorporating these destinations into your itinerary.

The amount of king penguins in South Georgia is staggering

3. Expedition environment rather than a luxury cruise. All the cruise guides had expedition-related background. Most of them were biologists that focused their career in all kinds of species (penguins, whales, or even plankton). We also had a photography tutor and also an astronomer with whom we could attend stargazing sessions. They all gave optional lectures fitting their backgrounds, mostly on sea days. It allowed us to really feel and value all the amazing things we experienced.

Finding a spot to land is sometimes difficult due to the density of wildlife

How’s a typical day on the vessel?

This is just an example and the exact hours may slightly vary. The weather forecast (mainly wind speed and gusts) is of paramount importance because it can make or break your day. In windy conditions, landings and zodiac cruises were substituted with informative lectures. Each subsequent day is meticulously planned by the expedition leader and the captain, with a briefing provided just before dinner time.

  • 8:00: wake-up call
  • 8:30: breakfast (buffet)
  • 9:30-12:00: landing / zodiac cruise
  • 12:30-14:00: lunch (buffet)
  • 14:30-17:00: landing / zodiac cruise
  • 18:30: briefing (lecture room)
  • 19:30-21:00: dinner (a la carte)
Two happy explorers of the Southern Ocean

Long story short…

Embarking on a journey to the Antarctic is a once-in-a-lifetime experience that offers a blend of breathtaking landscapes, incredible wildlife encounters, and a feeling of awe regarding the most pristine territories on the planet. The rewards of exploring the frozen continent are immeasurable and largely outweigh the high budgets involved.

As we navigate the biosecurity protocols, we dive deep in the rawness of this unique destination. All the necessary procedures leave us with a sense of commitment for the delicate balance of our planet and its preservation.

We really hope to have cleared your doubts on visiting Antarctica. If not, we’re still available to answer your questions in the comments section below 🙂

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