New Zealand is often ranked as one of the most beautiful countries in the world. This 600ish-island archipelago nation lies on the Pacific Ocean, right on the antipodes of Europe. However, the large majority of islands are deserted, as the large majority of the population is spread between the North and the South Islands. Both islands have distinct beauties, but the breathtaking nature and wilderness of the South Island puts NZ on top of nature lovers’ dreams.
The South Island covers an area of 151,215km2 and over one million people call it home. It is renowned for its stunning scenery, including glaciers, fjords, lakes, mountains, and rolling hills. The Southern Alps, which run the length of the island, are a major highlight and offer excellent opportunities for snow sports and hiking.
The island is a haven for nature lovers, with its national parks, glaciers, and natural wonders such as Milford Sound. Adventure seekers can enjoy a variety of outdoor activities as well. Foodies will find a thriving food scene and many vineyards producing world-class wines. History buffs will also enjoy exploring the region’s Maori culture and colonial heritage.
It’s hard to build an itinerary of just 10 days here, as the number of things to do and see is colossal. However, we did our best to seize every day while trying not to make it too tiresome. Just as happened with the North Island, we visited everything the most popular way: on a campervan and trying to always use free camping sites. While visiting NZ on a campervan, apps such as CamperMate will help you finding camping sites across the country. And if you’re traveling on a budget, you may use the app to filter free (or cheap) camping sites. So let’s pack our bags and experience New Zealand’s South Island!
Day 0: arrival
On this first day, we arrived to Christchurch airport from North Island close to dinner time. We stayed at a budget hotel just about the airport as we planned to get our campervan early in the morning.
Day 1: Arthur’s Pass
This park was originally not on our plans but we needed to cross it anyway to reach the western coast. Established in 1929, it was the first national park in the South Island, being known for its alpine scenery, crystal clear rivers and dense beech forests. It is also home to a variety of native wildlife, including kea parrots (impossible not to spot at least one) and great spotted kiwis, for example.
Along the route we 1) visited the “Castle on the Hill” conservation area circuit, featuring several unusual rock formations, 2) grabbed a tea and a cake in one of the bakeries of Arthur’s Pass village, and 3) hiked the Bealey River track from which we can see the Devil’s Punchbowl and Bridal Veil falls. We also stopped in many viewpoints for the occasional quick photo and leg-stretch.
The winding road led us to the western shores of NZ, where we headed south to Hokitika, a small coastal town where we had dinner. Our camping site for tonight was a beach parking lot further south, near Ruatapu.
- Christchurch -> Arthur’s Pass Village (141km; 1h45)
- Arthur’s Pass Village -> Ruatapu (111km; 1h22)
Day 2: Glaciers
2.1. Franz Josef Glacier
This second day brought us to see two famous glaciers peeking from the western hills of the Southern Alps. This mountain range runs the length of the island and is also the main divide between the eastern and western coasts. The Southern Alps are home to several of New Zealand’s highest peaks, including Aoraki/Mt. Cook (3724m).
Franz Josef Glacier is one of the most accessible glaciers in the world and attracts thousands of visitors each year. It is approximately 12km long and descends from over 3,000 meters to just 250 meters above sea level. This ice river is considered a temperate glacier because it flows rapidly and has a relatively low accumulation of snow. An easy and short flat trail will lead you from the parking lot to the viewpoint.
- Franz Josef Glacier trail: 1,4km (out and back)
- Ruatapu -> Franz Josef / Waiau (126km; 1h38)
2.2. Fox Glacier
Proceeding south you’ll come across Fox Glacier, a beautiful, 13km long glacier that descends from the Southern Alps to an elevation of just 300 meters above sea level. Fox Glacier is also a temperate glacier just like Franz Josef Glacier. The hiking track, however, is longer and has a slight elevation gain.
- Fox Glacier trail: 6,8km (out and back), elevation gain 178m
- Franz Josef / Waiau -> Fox Glacier (24km; 27min)
We took the chance to explore a little bit more of this area, as it was still early in the day after visiting Fox Glacier. Lake Matheson is very close to Fox Glacier, making it an excellent option to finish our day. We did the loop trail circling it, which is considered an easy track. The lake is surrounded by dense rainforest, adding to its natural beauty and making it a popular destination for nature lovers and photographers. If the wind allows it you may catch an incredible reflection of the Southern Alps, which can be seen in its clear and calm waters (we were not so lucky).
- Lake Matheson loop trail: 4,3km
Once more we made our way south searching for another free camping site. We found one near a salmon farm / restaurant in Paringa (South Westland Salmon Farm).
- Fox Glacier -> Paringa (66km; 49min)
Day 3: Haast Pass
This is a scenic mountain pass that crosses the Southern Alps. It is a popular destination for locals, known for its stunning natural beauty and outdoor recreational opportunities. Some of the greatest attractions include:
- Haast River: a crystalline stream of water that runs through the Haast Pass and is surrounded by lush rainforests, towering peaks, and cascading waterfalls;
- Wildlife: here you can spot unique and endangered wildlife species, including the Kiwi bird, Kea parrot, and New Zealand fur seal;
- Hiking and Tramping: a wide range of hiking opportunities through scenic rainforests and alpine meadows;
- Waterfalls: a number of accessible waterfalls may be found here
Here its worth stopping at some falls, such as the Depot Creek, Roaring Billy, Thunder Creek and Fantail Falls (all of them are quite near the main road, so it’s possible to pay a quick visit). We also hiked the Haast Pass Lookout and the Blue Pools.
- Haast Pass Lookout hike: 1,4km / ~40min / 107m elevation gain
- Blue Pools hike: 3,2km / 1h
The pass eventually ends near the northern shores of Lake Wanaka and the road will lead you to the eastern side of the lake. After a small isthmus of land you’ll reach the impressive Lake Hawea and its surrounding mountains. There’s some room to park the car on the left side of the road, just before it descends to the lake. We stopped here for a bit to get some pictures.
Finally we reached the picturesque city of Wanaka, where we stayed for the night.
- Paringa -> Wanaka (196km; 2h35)
Day 4: Wanaka
A small town located in the Otago region of New Zealand’s South Island, Wanaka’s known for its natural beauty and spectacular hiking trails. The glacier-fed Lake Wanaka is the centrepiece of the town, providing the final detail to incredible scenic views and offering a range of water-based recreational activities.
Wanaka is also known for its vibrant arts scene, with a number of galleries and cultural events taking place throughout the year. Restaurants are abundant and generally with good reviews, making it very hard to choose one. The region also boasts a number of wineries and vineyards, and one should not leave it without sampling some of NZ’s finest wines.
The Wanaka Tree, also known as the “That Wanaka Tree,” is a distinctive and lonely willow tree located in the shallow waters the lake. It has become one of the most photographed and recognisable landmarks in the country and a popular tourist attraction. The iconic composition of the tree with the snow-capped mountains on the background is a must-have photograph of New Zealand.
Roy’s Peak is one of the most sought-after hiking trails of the country, but unfortunately it was closed for the lambing season. We found however an excellent and easier alternative: the Rocky Mountain Track. It’s less popular than Roy’s but the views of Lake Wanaka and the surrounding mountains are equally impressive.
- Rocky Mountain Track: 7,1km / ~3h / elevation gain 490m
- Roy’s Peak Track: 16,3km / 7h30 / elevation gain 1305m
Later during the day, we drove to Glenorchy and found a nearby free campsite where we spent the night.
- Wanaka -> Glenorchy (115km; 1h54)
Day 5: Glenorchy and Queenstown
5.1. Glenorchy
Glenorchy is as off the beaten track as it gets. It’s a small settlement almost completely surrounded by mountains and is considered one of the most picturesque and unspoiled destinations in the country. Only 300 people live in this historical town of NZ, located on the dead end of the scenic road departing the popular and hyped Queenstown along the northern shore of Lake Wakatipu.
The city centre is well taken care of, with most buildings still preserving their wooden structure and old traces of architecture. You may find a number of mountain hikes here, but we just did the Lagoon Scenic Walkway as we were short on time. The track’s flat and very easy, starts on the margin of Dart River and crosses a number of small lakes.
- Lagoon Scenic Walkway: 3,1km / 40min
North of the city you may also find familiar landscapes from TV. Yes, these areas were featured in some movies such as the Lord of the Rings and Narnia. The real location of the valley of Isengard and the Lothlorien forest, for example, are located near one another and just a short drive from Glenorchy.
- Glenorchy -> Queenstown (46km; 42min)
5.2. Queenstown
Queenstown is a popular getaway destination and the capital of extreme sports in NZ. Known for its stunning natural beauty and outdoor recreation opportunities, Queenstown is considered one of the most beautiful and adventurous cities in the world. It is also known for its vibrant food and drink scene, featuring a range of local and international cuisines, craft breweries, and wineries.
The city itself has a pleasant centre and a beautiful garden by the shores of Lake Wakatipu. If you’re looking for a nice viewpoint of the town and the mountains, there’s a (very expensive) cable car that climbs the hill just behind the city. Boat and speedboat tours on the lake are available to buy on the harbour. In spite of being a tourist hotspot, most of the commonly recommended places to visit are in fact other villages such as Glenorchy, Wanaka and Arrowtown (another historic city just like Glenorchy).
From here we continued our trip to Milford Sound and slept on a paid camping site near road 94. There are many camping options on this road, but nearly all of them managed by the government and paid.
- Queenstown -> camping site near road 94 (245km; 2h47)
Day 6: Fiordland
6.1. Milford Sound
After another small drive, we reached one of the highlights of our roadtrip. The fjords of New Zealand are mostly inaccessible by road: Milford Sound is the exception that confirms the rule. This fjord is considered to be one of the most stunning natural wonders of the world: a tongue of sea water encircled by towering peaks, some of which rise over 1200m. At the mouth of the fiord is the impressive Mitre Peak, one of the most photographed landmarks in New Zealand.
The sound is also home to a diverse range of wildlife, including seals, penguins, and dolphins, which can often be seen playing in the water or sunbathing on the rocks. A dense rainforest surrounds the area and shelters a wide variety of native bird species. Unfortunately we had no luck seeing penguins and dolphins here.
Visitors to Milford Sound can take a boat tour to experience the full beauty of the fiord, including its impressive waterfalls and stunning views. Hiking and kayaking are also popular activities in the area, and there are several day and multi-day trails that wind through the rainforest and along the shore of the fjord.
- Milford Sound standard cruise: 60-80NZD / 2h
6.2. Lake Marian Track
On the way back from Milford Sound to Te Anau, we did one of the best day hikes available in the Fiordland National Park. The initial segment of the Lake Marian trail contains some beautiful waterfalls while the rest of the track has not much to see. However, the end of the track rewards you with a glacier-fed alpine lake located on a gorgeous setting. The hike is considered moderate to strenuous with some steep rock-climbing bits, but very doable overall.
- Lake Marian hike: 6,2km / 3h / elevation gain 412m
We ended the day having dinner in Te Anau, considered to be the gateway city to the fjords. There are no many options to free camp close to the city so we had to pay for a campsite again.
- Milford Sound -> Te Anau (118km; 1h45)
Day 7: From West to East
7.1. Te Anau
The day started early with a quick visit to the small town of Te Anau. The bird sanctuary is a public owned place that charges no fee for self-guided visitors but where donations are essencial to keep the sanctuary running. Here you can find rare birds in rehabilitation, in order to be freed in the wild. The most prominent species here is the Takahe, a flightless bird whose existence is severely threatened. Their population is currently estimated to be around 400-500 living individuals.
If you’re ditching the North Island of New Zealand, there’s a shot to visit a glowworm cave here. These caves are a unique and fascinating natural wonder that features thousands of glowworms, a species of bioluminescent insects. While the most famous one is in Waitomo (North Island), there are about 5 you can visit in New Zealand.
After Te Anau, we had the most exhausting driving day of this trip to the eastern coast of NZ.
- Te Anau -> Nugget Point (236km; 2h50)
7.2. Nugget Point
Nugget Point is a coastal headland located on the southeast coast of New Zealand’s South Island. You’ll find a series of jagged rock formations that resemble nuggets of gold, hence the name.
One of the main attractions at Nugget Point is the lighthouse, which has been guiding ships safely along this coast for over a century. Visitors can take a short walk to it and enjoy panoramic views of the surrounding coastline. In addition to the scenic beauty, Nugget Point is also a popular spot for wildlife watching. We spotted seals, sea lions, penguins, and various bird species in the area.
Roaring Beach is a dramatic coastline featuring towering cliffs, rugged rocks, and rolling waves. The sound waves make when they hit the rocks gives the beach its name. On this beach you may find a small colony of the rare yellow-eyed penguin, a medium-sized species that is native to NZ and the surrounding islands. As the name suggests, they are characterized by the distinctive yellow rings around their eyes. They have yellow irises, a white band around their heads, and a black face, neck, and back.
We were lucky enough to see this species, as they usually get back to their nest at around mid- to late afternoon. Is not unusual to wait 30min to 1h to see one but it’s absolutely worth the time spent.
Having checked many boxes on wildlife watching, we departed to Dunedin up north.
- Nugget Point -> Dunedin (110km; 1h34)
Day 8: East Coast (continued)
8.1. Dunedin
Dunedin is located in the southeastern part of NZ’s South Island, being known for its Victorian and Edwardian architecture as well as its rich history as a center of commerce and education. It is home to the University of Otago, the oldest and one of the country’s most prestigious universities.
The Dunedin Museum is located in the heart of the city. It rewards visitors with an in-depth look at the history and culture of the region, from its Maori heritage to its colonial past and modern-day society. The museum also showcases the city’s unique architectural heritage as well as its art deco architecture.
The historic railway station is considered one of the most important cultural and heritage landmarks here. It was built in 1906, is still in use today, and features a grand façade with a clock tower and intricate details. The inside is just as impressive, with fantastic stained glass windows and marble floors. It has been beautifully restored and now serves as a tourist information center.
- Dunedin Museum and railway station: free entrance
After a morning stroll by the city centre and a visit to the museum and the railway station, we continued further north where the Moeraki beach awaited.
- Dunedin -> Moeraki (76km; 59min)
8.2. Moeraki Beach
Just another sandy beach in NZ, correct? Not quite. Moeraki Beach is the home of a very special and rare geological formation which is commonly known as “The Moeraki Boulders”. These are large, spherical stones that are often described as one of the most unusual and fascinating natural wonders in NZ.
The boulders are estimated to be between 4-5 million years old and are composed of mud, silt, and clay, cemented together by calcium carbonate. They are unique in their size and shape, and they have been eroded by the waves of the ocean over millions of years, resulting in their smooth, almost perfect spherical shape. There’s a viewing platform that allows visitors to get a closer look but it’s also possible to walk around the boulders at low tide.
Our last point of interest this day was Oamaru, a small city close by.
- Moeraki Beach -> Oamaru (37km; 31min)
8.3. Oamaru
Just like Dunedin, Victorian and Edwardian buildings line the streets of Oamaru. Many of these were constructed in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, during a period of prosperity in the area. Today, the majority has been restored and repurposed as shops or cafes, for example. The Victorian precinct is the place to go if you’re into this kind of architecture.
The city is also known as the steampunk capital of NZ and features an interactive museum dedicated to this world. The building has a variety of visually impressive and thought-provoking exhibits that are powered by steam and clockwork.
- Steampunk HQ’s:
- Entrance fee: adults: 10NZD / <16yo: 2NZD
- Working hours: 10:00-16:00
As the sun sets, it’s time for our last highlight of the day! Oamaru hosts the only mainland breeding colony of the blue penguins in NZ, and visitors can watch them waddle up the beach at sunset to their nesting sites. You may watch this spectacle from a stage on a beach (most penguins are found here but a fee applies and photos are forbidden) or on the street, as penguins come ashore at different sites in Oamaru.
- Blue penguin colony:
- Entrance fee: adults: 43NZD / 5-17yo: 28NZD / 0-4yo: free
- Hours change according to the season
After dinner we drove inland to a free camping site near Aoraki / Mt. Cook National Park.
- Oamaru -> Twizel (145km; 1h45)
Day 9: Aoraki / Mt. Cook National Park
This national park is named after Aoraki/Mount Cook, the highest mountain in New Zealand (3724m). The park approximately encompasses 700km2 and is renowned for its alpine landscapes, towering peaks, glaciers and pristine lakes.
The road to the national park is stunningly beautiful and accompanies Lake Pukaki. It seems impossible but the truth is that the landscape somehow improves at each turn, and not stopping for photos is impossible. Lake Pukaki Viewpoint yields one of the best views along the way. We enjoyed it so much that we stopped there both in the morning and on the way back for sunset.
There are countless hiking trails within the park, from short walks to multi-day treks. We spent one day here so we tried to combine the effort and the reward. We did three tracks: the Hooker Valley, Sealy Tarns and Tasman Glacier viewpoint.
9.1. Hooker Valley Track
The most famous short walk is the Hooker Valley Track. It takes visitors on a scenic walk past the Hooker Glacier and ends at the glacial lake near Aoraki/Mount Cook. The track is well maintained and relatively flat and easy. Hikers can enjoy the views of the Mueller Glacier, Mount Sefton, and Aoraki/Mt. Cook along the way.
- Hooker Valley track: 10,8km / 2h30 / elevation gain 203m
9.2. Sealy Tarns Track
The Sealy Tarns Track is way more demanding than Hooker Valley. The trail begins at the Kea Point car park and climbs steeply (2000 steps!) to the Sealy Tarns, a series of small alpine lakes with stunning views of the surrounding mountains. The trail is well-kept but can be strenuous at times, so it is recommended for hikers in good physical condition.
- Sealy Tarns track: 5,1km / 3h / elevation gain 542m
9.3. Tasman Glacier View Track
The final hike of the day was the easiest one: the Tasman Glacier View track leads visitors on a scenic walk to a viewpoint overlooking the Tasman Glacier and its terminal lake. The trail is a bit steep but quite short and can be completed in under an hour.
- Tasman Glacier View track: 1,3km / 30min / elevation gain 78m
As mentioned before, we made a pit stop at the Pukaki Lake viewpoint to catch the sunset over Mt. Cook, and then proceeded to the same free camping site we spent the night before.
Day 10: Lake Tekapo
Last day on our South Island tour! On this day we visited the turquoise-blue Lake Tekapo and went back to our starting point, Christchurch.
- Twizel -> Lake Tekapo (60km; 41min)
Lake Tekapo is an incredible glacial lake that’s known for its incredibly clear blue colour, which is a result of the glacial meltwater that feeds into it. The lake is surrounded by the Southern Alps including the nearby Mount John, which has a nice trail to the top. The area is also a popular destination for stargazing due to its dark skies and clear atmosphere, and we may even find an observatory on the summit of the aforementioned Mount John.
The area around Lake Tekapo is also popular for activities such as hiking, mountain biking, skiing and water activities. There are several walking and cycling trails in the area: we did the Mount John Observatory track, which has a great panoramic view of the village, the lake and the Southern Alps.
- Mount John Observatory track: 3km / 1h30 / elevation gain 311m
Time to head back to Christchurch after a quick lunch. As our flight departed just before dinner time, we had no chance to visit the city although we’d like to. It is the biggest city of the South Island, well known for its public spaces, gardens and museums. Unfortunately, we had to leave it for another time.
- Lake Tekapo -> Christchurch airport (222km; 2h44)
And that’s a wrap! We really hope this long article helps you plan your itinerary in some way. We really had a fun time on this hikers’ and nature lovers’ dream, and we anticipate that you will as well! It’s impossible not to, in such a wonderful place :). By the way, if you’re planning on a visit to the North Island, please consider reading our North Island itinerary as well!