The North Island is one of the two main islands of New Zealand. It’s an overall beautiful and diverse piece of land, but often obfuscated by the impressive scenery and landscapes of the Southern Island.
The main draws to this island are related to its geothermal / volcanic activity, but it’s worth a stop in other national parks, heritage sites, and main cities. We chose to visit Auckland, the biggest one, but the country’s capital – Wellington – also rests on North Island (southern tip). While it could make for an interesting spot on our itinerary, it takes a long drive to get there. We ended up crossing it from our plan.
While visiting NZ on a campervan, apps such as CamperMate will help you finding all sorts of camping sites across the country. And if you’re traveling on a budget or just don’t wish to spend much money on those, you may use the app to filter free (or cheap) camping sites.
But without further ado, let’s have a check on our selected highlights:
Day 0: arrival
As it usually happens on the other itineraries we’ve been publishing, the “first day” is actually day 0. It coincides with the arrival date and we use it to sort ourselves out in the new country, get a car (when applicable) and drive towards our first point of interest.
We arrived by mid-afternoon after a long journey that slashed us 30+ hours of our vacations. After getting acquainted with our campervan, we departed from Auckland Airport to the south to reach Hamilton, the next “big” city on the road.
Here we found a wide offer of supermarkets which came in very handy, as we were just arriving and needed to buy food and other items (shower gel, detergents…) that would make our van liveable. Being a fairly big city, free designated camping sites were also easy to find so we stayed for the night.
- Auckland Airport -> Hamilton (109km; 1h14)
Day 1: Waitomo Caves and Maungatautari Sanctuary
1.1. Waitomo Glowworm Caves
The first proper day on NZ starts with a very unique location. The Waitomo Caves are inhabited by an endemic species of glowworm insects, Arachnocampa luminosa, that use bioluminescence to attract their prey. These creatures are extremely photosensitive and thus photography is not allowed inside the cave.
We may find three different tours available here:
- the classic Waitomo Glowworm Cave tour (which we did)
- takes around 1 hour, including a short 10min ride on a boat inside the cave
- Entrance fee: adults 55NZD / 4-14y.o. 25NZD / 0-3y.o. free entrance
- Aranui Cave tour
- A more geological approach to the caves which seems less interesting. By the official description is not clear whether or not it is even possible to see the glowworms on this tour.
- Entrance fees are similar to the Waitomo Cave tour, and also takes 1 hour
- Ruakuri Cave tour
- Apparently the most complete of the three. It’s a bit more expensive and lengthier, and you should allow 1h45 to do it.
- Entrance fee: adults 79NZD / 4-14y.o. 30NZD / 0-3y.o. free entrance
- Hamilton -> Waitomo (68km; 56min)
1.2. Kiwi House (Otorohanga)
The next stop was not on our original plan but we saw some ads on the road regarding it. Kiwi House is a conservation centre focused on rehabilitating and releasing kiwis to the wild. As wild kiwis sightings are rare, we took the tip and went to visit this place.
It features two dark houses where kiwi live in a close-to-natural environment, and we can see them through the glass if we’re patient enough. An infra-red CCTV system allows you to see them on camera if they’re nesting. Photos are not allowed inside the dark houses.
Apart from the kiwis, other native birds and lizards also live in a huge tent-like net inside which it’s possible to walk through a small dirt track.
- Entrance fee: adults 26 NZD / 5-15y.o. 10NZD / 0-4y.o. free entrance
- Expected duration of visit: 1 hour
- Waitomo -> Otorohanga (16km; 15min)
1.3. Maungatautari Mountain Sanctuary
Few people know this, but the current fauna of New Zealand is quite different from it once was. Ever though how come not flying was not necessary for birds like kiwi or kakapo? That’s right, those islands did not have rodents until the 13th century. And with the English ships first came the rabbits, whose inevitable uncontrolled proliferation was “solved” by the introduction of minks and other assorted predators.
These species are considered pests and actively kept in control by NZ authorities who use traps and poison to diminish their numbers. Not only do they compete by food with NZ’s native birds, but they also prey on them. Biologists estimate that these islands loss quite a few species of birds during these last centuries. Places like this sanctuary keep rodents and predators out thanks to an electrified fence, mimicking the original environment of the island and giving birds the chance to peacefully thrive.
This was our last stop of the day, and we’re glad it was. Having arrived just before office closing time (16:00), we were happy to know that after getting our ticket we could stay after hours.
The mountain has a main enclosure and a smaller southern enclosure. We went to visit the latter and walked the Rimu Track (2km) and the Rata Track (2,2km), named after native tree species. Late afternoon’s perfect to visit the mountain, as fauna is usually more active. We saw birds such as Kaka, North Island Robin (Pitoitoi), Whitehead (Popokotea), North Island Tomtit (Miromiro), Saddleback (Tieke), Fantail (Piwakawaka), New Zealand Pigeon (Kereru)…
- Entrance fee: adult 25NZD // children 11,5NZD
- Estimated visit duration: 2-3h
- Otorohanga -> Maungatautari (47km; 37min)
We slept on a free camping site halfway between Maungatautari and our next point of interest, Orakei Korako.
Day 2: Around Taupo
2.1. Orakei Korako
Our second day on this island was almost fully dedicated to geothermal sites. The first one, Orakei Korako, is a volcanic plateau close to Taupo, and arguably one of the most complete geothermal sites of NZ. Here we can find geysers, bubbling mud pools, hot springs and silica terraces. Ruatapu Cave is one of the two geothermal caves known in the world and a is a sight not to be missed.
From the parking lot, the silica terraces and vapor clouds are easily spotted across the lake. In order to get there you’ll need a boat ride from the staff at the reception (the ride’s included on the entrance fee).
- Entrance fee: adults 45NZD / 6-16y.o. 19NZD / 0-6y.o. free entrance
- Estimated duration of visit: 1h30
- Opening hours: 8-16h
2.2. Craters of the Moon
Heading from Orakei Korako to Taupo, you’ll find another peculiar volcanic activity spot. Craters of the Moon is a vast field of fumaroles and boiling mud lakes which formation was triggered by a nearby geothermal station in the 50’s.
A wooden walkway leads tourists along a circuit between the numerous fumaroles. It is often moved due to the regular appearance of new vents.
- Entrance fee: adults 10NZD / 5-15y.o. 5NZD / 0-4y.o. free entrance
- Expected duration of visit: 1h
- Opening hours: 9h30-17h00 (last entry at 16h)
- Orakei Korako -> Craters of the Moon (32km; 27min)
2.3. Taupo
The city of Taupo is located on the northern shore of the homonymous lake, which is the biggest of NZ. Lake Taupo drains through the Waikato River, that crosses the city and flows northwards after passing the several terraces of Huka Falls.
The city itself does not have any special landmark. In spite of that, it’s frequently sought after by tourists who see its beaches, nearby hot springs and resorts as a perfect getaway. Apart from that, it is also a popular extreme sports hub if you’re into those.
Here we visited the aforementioned Huka Falls, a set of terraces and waterfalls flowing through a narrow riverbed. A network of pleasant hiking tracks surrounds the falls.
- Entrance fee (Huka Falls): free
- Expected duration of visit: 1h
We also planned to see the Maori carvings (Ngatoroirangi Maori Rock Carvings), a relief sculpture on a cliff facing Lake Taupo that pays homage to the indigenous heritage of NZ. It’s hard to do it independently because it’s only accessible by boat. Unfortunately the last boat of the day had already departed when we arrived, so we couldn’t see it: the perfect excuse for a craft beer in one of the city’s many pubs instead.
- Entrance fee (Maori carvings): adults 40NZD / children 15NZD / infants free
- Boat departures: 10:30 / 14:00
- Expected duration of visit: 2h
- Craters of the Moon -> Taupo (7km; 8min)
From Taupo, we drove south to Tongariro National Park, where we stayed for the night.
- Taupo -> Tongariro (73km; 1h03)
Day 3: Tongariro
The most awaited day in the North Island turned out to be the worst disappointment we faced in our recent travel years. Tongariro is NZ’s oldest national park and home to three active volcanic mountains: Ruapehu, Ngauruhoe and Tongariro.
Tongariro Alpine Crossing is a day-long hiking trail that we saved one full day for. The track is 19,4km in length and crosses these volcanic landscapes. It is frequently regarded as the best hike in New Zealand, with plenty of sights and otherworldly landscapes. The trail is linear, which means we had to leave our campervan on the end of the trail parking lot and hire a taxi to the beginning of the track. The owners of the camping site we stayed in (named Crossroads) provided that service for us for 80NZD.
The fogginess did not look great to be honest but we still went for it, praying for a change in weather. By the 4th kilometre it got unexpectedly better for a bit, but as we went up in altitude the conditions started to deteriorate. The 8th kilometre brought even more fog, and unfortunately a blizzard and gust winds hit the mountain shortly after. The conditions were in for an accident to happen, and almost everyone on the track turned back before the ridge between the central and red craters.
It’s not easy to quit on something like this, particularly when we were already halfway there. But the visibility was poor and we wouldn’t see anything either way. Having to walk all the distance back to the starting point with strong winds and snow/rain was a punch in the stomach. And to get things worse, our campervan waiting for us many miles away, at the end of the track. Luckily we got a ride from a French couple that we briefly met on the track that also turned. Thanks to them, we saved a lot of time and money on this day.
It was still early in the day and we slowly headed north to clear some other landmarks in this North Island. Taupo was of course the perfect halfway stop for a rest and another craft beer!
- Tongariro -> Matamata (190km; 2h27)
Day 4: Hobbiton and Rotorua
4.1. Hobbiton
Our 4th day gifted us with another much awaited sight. Hobbiton is quite expensive to visit and of course man made but Tolkien fans won’t probably mind to splurge a little bit of cash on this dreamy location. Please be reminded that the set was the filming spot only for the exterior scenes, and as such the typical hobbit houses are completely empty on the inside.
Guided visits are mandatory. A bus will take you from the reception to Hobbiton, where your tour guide will walk you through the picturesque movie set. Halfway through the tour you’ll have a designated stop to take the classic picture with a hobbit house. The tour ends with a craft beer of your choice in the Hobbiton restaurant & bar.
Tickets are sold fast, so we’d recommend you to use the movie set’s webpage to book yours in advance. We chose to do the conventional tour but there’s the option to attend an evening banquet tour that includes dinner.
- Expected duration of visit
- Standard tour: 2h
- Evening banquet tour: 4h
- Entrance fee
- Standard tour: adults 89NZD / 9-16y.o. 44NZD / 0-8y.o. free entrance
- Evening banquet: adults 199NZD / 9-16y.o. 162NZD / 5-8y.o. 104NZD / 0-4y.o. free entrance
4.2. Rotorua
Yet another place in New Zealand mostly known for its geothermal phenomena, such as Taupo. In fact, both cities are not that distant from each other but our plan made us visit them on different days.
There are three major geothermal sites in Rotorua, but we only had time to visit one of them. From Te Puia, Wai-O-Tapu and Waimangu, we chose the latter.
Te Puia may be the most famous attraction in Rotorua due to the Pohutu geyser spring, the largest in the Southern Hemisphere that erupts about 20 times per day at a height of about 30m. The enclosure also features a replica of a Maori village with typical experiences and a kiwi conservation centre. We didn’t choose this one, however. Most travel blogs we read spoke of it as an exaggeratedly commercial theme park on which the natural landscapes lost their rawness and natural beauty.
Wai-O-Tapu was unfortunately closed for renovation when we visited NZ. We’d love to visit this wonderland of stinky sulphur lakes, bubbling mud pools and geysers. We were really undecided between this one and Waimangu but its closure eased our minds to be honest.
Finally, let’s talk about Waimangu! The distance from Rotorua is probably inversely proportional to the total number of visitors these parks get. That may also be the reason why Waimangu and Wai-O-Tapu do not have the hype of Te Puia (which is near the heart of the city). We went to Waimangu on a rainy day and still left amazed with the richness of this valley.
The enclosure comprises a 4,5km linear track around which several geothermal attractions gather. The trail ends near the scenic Lake Rotomahana from which you can do a short cruise to the Star Hill crater. We’d say the most beautiful sights in Waimangu are the Frying Pan Lake (the biggest hot spring in the whole world!) and the Inferno Crater, not forgetting all the silica terraces along the way.
- Entrance fee:
- Te Puia: adult 75NZD / 5-15y.o. 37,5NZD / 0-4y.o. free entrance
- Wai-O-Tapu: adult 32,5NZD / 5-15y.o. 11NZD / 0-4y.o. free entrance
- Waimangu: adult 44NZD / 6-16y.o. 15NZD / 0-5y.o. free entrance
- Hobbiton -> Rotorua (69km; 59min)
Days 5-6: Auckland
Time to return to our entry point, Auckland. It was still a long way there and the reality of driving in NZ’s roads doesn’t always meet ends with Google Maps ETAs. As such, this stretch will probably set you back a whole morning.
These last few days is where this North Island itinerary meets our Auckland guide, starting with the visit to the exquisite Auckland Museum on the 5th day and proceeding with a walking tour on the city centre on the day after.
- Rotorua -> Auckland (226km; 2h47)
And that’s a wrap on our North Island campervan circuit! If you have any doubts or questions feel free to use the comment section below! If you’re also interested on the South Island, you may take a look at our South Island itinerary too 🙂