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Djibouti: a quick guide

Understanding:

Inhabited from ancient times, this was the likely location for what was known as the Land of Punt in 2500 BCE (contemporary to the Ancient Egypt). Other kingdoms such as the Macrobians settled here, until Somali tribes started expanding West in the 9th century (Kingdom of Adal). The close contact to the Arabic peninsula led to the adoption of Islam as a religion, and several Sultanates were established through centuries until the Ottoman Empire came to control the area by the 16th century.

As the power of the Ottoman Empire wore off in the region, popular dissatisfaction rose. Their retreat was seen by France as an opportunity to have some influence in the Horn of Africa and they started signing treaties with local rulers for the acquisition of land. The opening of the Suez Canal in 1869 yielded an even larger importance to this region. As the French influence grew, Djibouti eventually became a protectorate of France under the name “French Somaliland” during the Scramble for Africa.

After several referenda for the independence and internal rioting and clashes, Djibouti became independent in 1977. Since then, however, permanent tensions between two factions that disputed power led to a civil war from 1991-1994. Guerrilla war continued until 1998, elections were held in 1999, but only in 2001 a peace deal was achieved. The current Djiboutian president is in office since these 1999 elections, being one of the longest-serving rulers in the world today.

Geography:

Djibouti is a small nation on the Horn of Africa, stuck between Eritrea, the Somaliland region of Somalia, and Ethiopia.

This is a very arid country, where agriculture is nearly impossible. It marks the beginning of the Rift Valley, which starts at the Gulf of Tadjoura and extends south to Kenya and Tanzania.

The landscape is irregular, and most of the territory is deserted land. Here you can find the second lowest depression on the planet, Lac Assal (157m below sea level), and also surreal landscapes such as Lac Abbé – a must see in a visit to Djibouti.

In spite of being mostly a desert, its coast is bathed by the Red Sea. This means that you can find here beaches and snorkeling of similar quality to those of touristic places such as Hurghada, Sharm El-Sheikh or Aqaba, but without the crowds.

Basic info:

  • Capital: Djibouti City
  • Population: ~900000 (2020 estimate)
  • Language: Somali, Afar (French widely understood, English understood in restaurants, hotels and by younger population)
  • Religion: 94% Islam; 6% Christianity
  • Currency: Djibouti Franc (DJF). The face value of the DJF is pegged to the US dollars. As of June 2022:
    • 1 USD = 178 DJF (constant)
    • 1 EUR = 185 DJF
  • Plugs:
    • type C and E (both compatible with continental Europe)

When to go:

This is one of the hottest regions on the planet. Spring, Summer and Autumn should be avoided. From December to February the temperatures are milder which yields an excellent time for a visit. Luckily, this period coincides with the whale shark season.

Visa policy (simplified):

Nationals of Singapore are entitled to a visa on arrival. All other tourists need to apply for an eVisa on this link. Processing time should be less that 72h.

Money:

There are a few ATM available in Djibouti City for withdrawals. US dollars are accepted in some places like restaurants and hotels. It should be okay to change money on the street.

The country is a cash economy and a card will be of little use here, so we took dollars and euros with us. However, some mid and high-end restaurants in the capital will likely have a card terminal. We used Revolut in the country and it worked.

Please note that this might be one of the most expensive countries in Africa. The presence of foreign military and the pegging of the DJF to the dollar might have some responsibility on this. A regular meal on a mid-range restaurante may cost about 25$/person (23€), and most hotels charge north of 125$/night (120€) for a double room.

SIM cards:

There’s not much choice regarding SIM cards, as Djibouti Telecom (a government company) is the only internet provider in the country. There’s no kiosk in the international airport, so the most convenient place to buy a SIM card is perhaps the Djibouti Telecom store in the Djibouti Bawadi Mall.

Wi-Fi access in restaurants and hotels is often spotty and slow, but it was more than enough for our routine (messaging apps / social networks).

What to wear:

Djibouti is a conservative Muslim country that’s not familiar with crowds of tourists. Visitors are advised to dress modestly.

Women: It’s not advisable for women to wear skirts or shorts, and shoulders should also be covered. There are designated beaches where women can wear bikini or swimsuit (e.g.: Arta Beach or Douda Beach). Women do not need to cover their heads unless inside religious buildings.

Men: Shorts should be okay except inside religious buildings.

Safety:

Djibouti is generally not an unsafe country. The major threat to tourists are probably extortion by corrupt policemen and other harmless scams. Pickpocketing and minor thefts are also possible in our opinion. Violent crime or terrorist attacks are very unlikely.

Beware of photographing public or administrative buildings: it most certainly will get you into trouble, as we explained here.

Tipping:

Tipping is customary in this country, and a 10% tip should be added to any service (in restaurantes, for example). The same rule applies to tour guides.

Accommodation:

Expensive, as everything in Djibouti. We managed to get a place for around 75€ (78$) but most will set their prices above 120€ (125$). We stayed at Auberge Boulaos.

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