These two easternmost provinces in Kurdistan were formerly one (Sulaymaniyah), until Halabja split in 2014. However, the geographical dimensions of the latter are so little that we opted to dissect both together in this page. We’ve booked a hotel (Khan Saray) in Suli from which we visited everything on foot or on a rental car.
1. Sulaymaniyah Governorate
1.1. Sulaymaniyah
As we’ve briefly discussed in the the article on the city of Suli (one of the Sulaymaniyah’s several nicknames), the city itself was founded quite recently (1784). In its short history, the population has been consistently increasing until it boomed after the US-led invasion of Iraq with the relief of international sanctions.
Today, Suli is a quite modern city. A glimpse of tradition is seen on its bustling bazaar. In short, these are our top picks for Suleiman (a more complete description is found on this link):
- Sulaymaniyah Museum
- Amna Suraka
- Bazaar
- Great Mosque
- Azmar Mountain
1.2. Lake Dukan and Ranya
An artificial but scenic lake, Dukan is a top-spot for locals to spend a day, a weekend or even to go on vacation. Water sports are available during warmer months and there’s plenty of accommodation and restaurants to choose from.
We circled the lake on its eastern shore, when traveling from Sulaymaniyah to Duhok. The GPS will naturally tell you to follow the main route which is the quickest. However, our advice is to turn right before the lake begins (when heading southeast -> northwest on the main road) and drive through the mountains south of the lake. Landscape lovers will thank this tip!
North of the lake, lies the laidback city of Ranya. In order to reach it, we must cross the Darband Bridge over the lake. The city has not that much to offer but still suits well for a quick meal and a stroll in the bazaar.
1.3. Qizpaqan Tomb
Some say this might be the tomb of Cyaxares, a ruler of the Median Kingdom (today’s Iran). However, no one will ever know for sure for whom it was. The tomb is located 10-15km from the main road, near the village of Dukan (insert the coordinates 35.8097, 45.0044 on your GPS for an accurate location).
The site is not big but has a mysterious feeling to it. We must climb a metal platform to see the carved tomb with the reliefs. Today, it is protected with a metal grid which didn’t help our pictures.
- Admission: free
- Expected visit duration: 15min
2. Halabja Governorate
2.1. Halabja
The city lies on the base of the mountain range that borders Iraq. It is mostly known nowadays for the devastating chemical attacks that occurred here in 1988 (“Halabja Massacre”). The attacks were simultaneously part of the Anfal campaign and a retaliation, after the capture of the city by Kurdish Peshmerga guerrillas during the Iran-Iraq war. Five thousand people died immediately and 7000 more were injured as a result, mostly civilians.
In 2003, a memorial was built for the ones who suffered with the attack. The tent-shaped monument features archive texts and memorabilia that survived the event, as well as impressive photographs taken on the aftermath.
- Estimated visiting duration: 1h
- Admission: free
2.2. Bawra
A very small village on the border with Iran which comprises a main central street sided by shops, cafés and restaurants. A cute, medium-sized, blue and white mosque is also present.
Another draw to visit it is a small stream of water which serves as border with Iran – it’s possible to walk on both sides of the border. Impressively, many locals often come for a small stroll here. The place is guarded by the border police. A rural house sells coffee and tea near the stream of water, on the Iraqi side.
- Estimated duration of visit: 1h30
- Admission: free
And that’s a wrap for the highlights of these two governorates. If you have any queries or corrections, please use the comment section below!