Ohrid is probably the city that welcomes most tourists in North Macedonia, and rightfully so. It is one of the oldest settlements of all Europe, dating back to the 3rd century BC (known as Lychnidos by then). Currently, it is one of the biggest cities in North Macedonia and has its own airport, with direct connections to London, Amsterdam or Brussels, for example.
The lakeshore of Lake Ohrid is partly Macedonian, partly Albanian, but this city is arguably the most famous in the area. The hills and mountains around the lake are a perfect complement to the cityscape, and it’s possible to have a glimpse of all that from the castle above the city.
We stayed two nights here at Art B&B hotel. Not the best hotel we’ve been to in this trip: not a lot of amenities and far from the historical centre but the overall price was good, considering we visited Ohrid in high-season (July 2021).
The historical centre is not that big, so we think this is doable in just one day.
1) From the Hotel to Samoil’s Fortress (morning)
Our hotel was located in the eastern part of the city and just a quick walk away from the lake. We started the day by walking to the lakeshore and then slowly headed west to the centre.
Our first stop was the Robev Family House (in Tsar Samoil Street), a typical house from a wealthy family which is now renovated and used as a cultural museum. Here you can see archeological objects, costumes and pieces of art from Macedonian artists.
- Entrance fee: 100MKD
- Expected time of visit: 30min
About 100m further lies one of the most beautiful churches of the city: the Church of Saint Sophia, built around the 9th century AD. Although it was converted into a mosque during the Ottoman times, it still has some preserved frescoes from the 11th-13th centuries in the interior.
- Entrance fee: 100MKD
- Expected time of visit: 20-30min
From here, we started the way up to the castle on Ilindenska Street. As we ascend the street, we’ll see the Ancient Macedonian Theatre on our left. We stopped for a quick rest and a photo.
- Entrance fee: free
- Expected time of visit: 10min
A few meters ahead, we came across the Upper Gate of the city. At its right, there’s a fine Orthodox Church to visit (Holy Mary Perybletos), also with fine frescoes on its interior. From the gardens of the church there’s a nice view to the fortress walls.
- Entrance fee: 100MKD
- Expected time of visit: 30min
From here we went to the castle walking the Kuzman Kapidan street. This is a very photogenic area of the city with a traditional housing style. If you’re visiting during Summer, you’ll find these houses covered with plants and colourful flowers, which adds to the beauty of the place.
Having finally arrived to Samoil’s Fortress, we realised that there are not many structures inside to see, so the main thing to do here is to walk its huge walls and soak in the views it offers.
- Entrance fee: 80MKD
- Expected time of visit: 30min
After that, we walked down to the Church of Saint Sophia to find a restaurant, as the offer here is abundant.
2) Monasteries by the lake
From the restaurant, we headed to the Church of Saints Clement and Panteleimon, an Orthodox Church which was being renovated at the time. The complex also features an archeological site of early basilicas and other shrines.
- Entrance fee: 100MKD
- Expected time of visit: 45min
A short walk is necessary to reach the most photogenic monastery of Macedonia: the Church of Saint John the Theologian. The chapel itself is very small. It’s possible to visit it but actually you can see most of the inside if you look through the door. Most of the time spent here will likely be used to take pictures of it from different angles.
- Entrance fee: 100MKD
- Expected time of visit: 30min
We ended our day just as we started it, with a stroll on the lakeside. From the Church of Saint John the Theologian, there’s a walkway that leads us to the centre of the city (Ohrid Boardwalk). The walkway goes through the beaches of Kaneo, Potpesh and Saraiste to reach the area near the main city plaza.
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