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Egypt: a 16-day itinerary

Best known for the temples and other historical sites related to the Egyptian civilization, this country has become one of the most visited territories of the World until the 2011 revolution, which led to an abrupt downturn in tourism. The more recent counter-revolution has led to a decrease in crime rate secondary to a more authoritarian government, and things have since been looking brighter if you’re planning to visit the country.

After some research, we decided to visit Aswan, Luxor, Alexandria, Siwa and Cairo. Sixteen days in Egypt will be plenty of time to see all the major sites here. Still, if you only have two weeks, you may skip Alexandria and shrink this itinerary to 14 days.

We did all the itinerary independently, as we had a Lonely Planet guide on our iPad, which we used whenever possible. The only exception was the Karnak Temple in Luxor, where we hired a certified egyptologist (±100EGP/hour). We did not regret this option, as you can see in our guide to Luxor.

On this itinerary, we skipped two major things that were not that important to us, but may be a dealbreaker for many people:

Day 0: arriving to Cairo

You’ll likely enter and exit Egypt through Cairo International Airport. When we travel, we usually visit last the city from which we exit the country. We’ve been occasionally adopting this strategy for years. Since covid-19 entered our lives, it has been almost mandatory to do so because of PCR testing.

On this trip, we arrived late and slept near Cairo International Airport on the day of arrival, only to leave Cairo again next morning by plane, to Aswan (±1h flight).

Our Egypt travel map (adapted from Google Maps)

Days 1-4: Aswan

1st day: we arrived early from Cairo, but we went for a rest at our guesthouse until lunch. At the afternoon, we visited the ruins of Abu and Aswan Museum. We spent the rest of the day wandering in Elephantine Island, where we stayed during our time here (Basmatic Nubian Guesthouse).

2nd day: west bank of the Nile (Tombs of the Nobles, Botanical Garden, Aga Khan Mausoleum, St. Simeon’s Monastery, Nubian Village)

3rd day: Abu Simbel (morning); Nubian Museum (afternoon)

4th day: Philae Temple (morning); Unfinished Obelisk and bazaar (afternoon)

Click here to access our complete guide to Aswan.

View from the Tombs of the Nobles (Aswan)

Day 5: Aswan to Luxor

We woke up early this day and traveled by train from Aswan to Luxor. Kom Ombo and Edfu have amazing temples, so we stopped in both cities for a visit. We left Aswan on the first train (5:30am) and arrived at Luxor by sunset (6:00pm). You can read more on this day here.

Days 6-8: Luxor

6th day: west bank of the Nile (Colossi of Memnon, Valley of the Kings, Temple of Hatshepsut, Valley of the Queens, Tombs of the Nobles, Medinat Habu)

7th day: Temples of Karnak (morning) and Luxor (afternoon)

8th day: Luxor Museum & Mummification Museum (morning); city centre & bazaar (afternoon)

We got a good deal at Jolie Ville Resort for our dates. More details on Luxor can be found on this link.

Temple of Karnak

Night bus from Luxor to Alexandria

We are not aware of a way of doing this directly, so we did it in two steps, quickly stopping in Cairo. The most popular (and touristy) way of going from Luxor to Cairo is on a sleeper train. However, tickets are expensive and you can do it on a night bus while taking the same amount of time (±8-9 hours).

We booked our tickets with Go Bus (they have an office near Luxor’s train station) for ±200EGP. Please note that the rate may vary from ±200-400EGP according to the amenities of the bus. There are several stations in Cairo but if you say you’re heading to Alexandria, they’ll know the best option.

  • Bus ticket (Luxor – Cairo): 200-400EGP

When arriving in Cairo, get out near Ramses Station (most people on the bus will leave here). You’ll see lots of parked minivans waiting for passengers. Some drivers will be yelling “Xandria” – the rate is usually fixed. This last leg of the trip lasts 2,5 hours.

  • Minivan seat (Cairo – Alexandria): 40-50EGP

Days 9-10: Alexandria

9th day: from the Corniche area to Qaitbay Citadel

We chose a waterfront hotel (Miramar Boutique Hotel) on the Corniche area. The day was supposed to be relaxed as we slept on the night bus, so we walked El-Gaish Road by the sea. Going west from the Corniche, interesting sites include the famous Bibliotheka Alexandrina (there’s a daily limit for sold tickets, so go early or buy in advance), Sidi Morsi Abo Al Abass Mosque, and finally Qaitbay Citadel (tickets: 40EGP)

  • Bibliotheka Alexandrina: 70EGP
  • Qaitbay Citadel: 40EGP
View of Alexandria from the Qaitbay Citadel

10th day: Catacombs of Kom El Shoqafa, Pompey’s Pillar, Museum of Alexandria

The Catacombs are the largest Roman burial site in Egypt, and the tombs feature a unique fusion of both Egyptian and Greco-Roman styles, a hallmark of Alexandria.

Pompei’s Pillar is a lonely 30-meter pillar rising above the ruins of the ancient Temple of Serapeum, paying homage to Serapis, a very popular hybrid Greek and Egyptian God.

Alexandria National Museum is definitely a highlight as you can understand the different eras this city has endured. The basement includes Ancient Egyptian heritage, the ground floor is dedicated to Greco-Roman times and the top floor comprises memorabilia from the Coptic Christians, the Islamic and Ottoman periods, and modern times.

  • Catacombs of Kom El Shoqafa: 80EGP
  • Pompei’s Pillar: 60EGP
  • Alexandria National Museum: 80EGP
Pompei’s Pillar

Night bus from Alexandria to Siwa

This trip can be done during the night, on a budget. Find the West & Middle Delta Bus office near the famous Steigenberger Hotel. The location on google maps is not completely accurate – it’s on the Steigenberger Hotel quarter but facing Omar Lotfy street.

The journey takes 8 hours and runs 4 times daily (we took the bus at 10:00pm and arrived at 06:30am). Buses depart from Moharam Bek station. Expect to be randomly stopped at military checkpoints along the way.

  • Bus ticket (Alexandria – Siwa): 155EGP

Days 11-13: Siwa Oasis

11th day: desert tour

12th day: Salt lakes, Cleopatra Spring, Temple of Amun, Gabal Al-Mawta, Citadel

13th day: Citadel, City Centre

Siwa from the Citadel

Night bus from Siwa to Cairo

The same company that runs the Alexandria – Siwa route, West & Middle Delta Bus, sells tickets to Cairo at the guichet of the bus stop at the city centre. The night bus runs daily to Cairo, leaving at 8:00pm (duration: 10-11 hours)

  • Bus ticket (Siwa – Cairo): 230EGP

Days 14-16: Cairo

14th day: Giza Necropolis (morning), Egyptian Museum (afternoon)

15th day: Cairo Citadel, Islamic Quarter, Khan El-Khalili Market

16th day: Saqqara and Dahshur day-trip

More details on our time in Cairo here. Information on the Saqqara and Dahshur day-trip can be found in this link.

The Sphinx and the Pyramid of Khafre

Any questions regarding this itinerary? Comment below and we’ll reply as soon as possible!

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