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Erbil: seven thousand years of history

Welcome to one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. Erbil (also called Hawler) has endured millennia of history, and still stands today as the capital of Kurdistan. This prominent city was incorporated in multiple empires through ages, and today more than one million people call it home.

The citadel, located at the very centre of the metropolis, is the most important landmark here. Its walls bear the weight of 7000 years of age but still dominate the skyline, as the citadel was built in a promontory of land, 30 meters above the ground level of the city.

We’ve chosen the Erbil View Hotel to stay here. It’s a very nice hotel located about 1km away from the Main Plaza. Upper floors offer a nice view to the citadel – it’s possible to ask for a room with a view.

Count on spending one day and a half to see the city’s essentials. Here are our top choices when visiting Erbil:

1. The Citadel

An obvious one. The aforementioned citadel is the centre and heart of the city, and a visit to Erbil is not complete without wandering the dirt streets of this majestic monument. There are two gates but you’ll probably enter the one near the main square.

Once we enter, we may see that many structures inside are in ruins, while others are being fixed and renovated. Hopefully in a few years we may see those streets just like they once were. At the very centre stands a giant flagpole with a Kurdish flag.

At our right hand side, just after the main gate, there’s a small tapestry museum (Kurdish Textile Museum) to which we can pay a quick visit. Here you can learn more about the techniques and the meanings of each carpet design. On the opposite side, we may find the Erbil Stones and Gems Museum (closed at the time, so we did not enter)

From the smaller citadel gate we’ll find some great views to the North of the city, but the best views in the citadel are from the southern side, where we can admire the hustle and bustle of the main plaza and the city’s bazaar.

  • Expected duration of visit: 1h30 (includes the Kurdish Textile Museum)
  • Admission fee (citadel): free
  • Admission fee (Kurdish Textile Museum): 1500 IQD
Erbil’s Citadel from the Main Square

2. Main City Square

This is the social centre of the city and a meeting point for locals. Many vendors work here, selling balloons, chocolates and candies, or tea and coffee. Pigeon food is also sold here, as locals enjoy spending their time feeding the birds that nest nearby.

The square borders the bazaar and the citadel, and it’s a good place to get the vibe and spirit of the city. Don’t miss the colourful dome and the iconic watch tower (picture below, left hand side).

Erbil’s Main Square
Locals passing time in the main plaza

3. Qaysari Bazaar

A Qaysari Bazaar is a type of covered bazaar that’s typical from the Kurdistan and Iraq territories. The bazaar stretches from the western side of the Main Square to its eastern side. The best and most significant part, however, sits on the western side.

The market has several entrances from the streets and alleys that surround it. Inside we may wander through the many narrow alleyways to find stores selling almost anything. Many are really photogenic, as we’ll see on the pictures below.

A must-see inside the bazaar is the Mam Khalil’s teashop, one of the oldest shops in the market as of today, serving coffee and tea since the 1950’s. Its peculiar walls are decorated with old photographs and newspapers’ articles. It offers a warm time travel to ancient times with its location, decoration and archive photos filling its walls.

4. Erbil Civilization Museum

A small museum divided in three sections, showing artefacts from the 1) Paleolithic to the neo-Sumerian age; 2) Urartian to the Hatra periods; and 3) Sassanid and Islamic periods. It’s located some quarters south of the Main Square, but it’s worth the detour and it doesn’t take much time to visit.

The opening hours are very limited, so a good option would be to start the day here and then head North to the centre. It is open from Mondays to Thursdays (9am – 1pm).

  • Expected duration of visit: 1h
  • Admission fee: free

5. Mudhafaria Minaret

A 36-meter tall minaret built around the 13th century by the prince of Erbil. It features an octogonal base with a cylindrical top, and a balcony in between. It was closed at the time but it’s visible from the street.

Mudhafaria Minaret

6. Jalil Khayat Mosque

This is a very recent mosque, built between 2005-2007, and located 2km Northeast of the citadel. Despite being quite new, it is probably the most beautiful mosque of Erbil.

The exquisite architecture encompasses countless green, white and turquoise domes, as well as several details on the exterior tiles. And when we think we’ve seen it all, we enter its doors and feel like the interiors are even more impressive. Intricate details were used on the interior tiles, using predominantly red, golden, and blue tones. A red and golden carpet adds a finishing touch to the walls.

Jalil Khayat Mosque
Jalil Khayat Mosque (interior)

7. Money Market

We may find some money exchange counters in the bazaar, but this market is specific to this. It’s a curious place where stall owners carry lots of cash on their hands and in their carts. Security or surveillance is nowhere to be seen, yet money transactions are made very naturally. Caution is advised when taking pictures here.

And that’s a wrap for our top spots of Erbil! Any queries or comments? Feel free to comment in the section below!

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