Introduction:
The semi-autonomous region of Iraqi Kurdistan is subdivided in 4 governorates, from which Duhok is the westernmost one. Bordering Turkey on the north and Syria on the west, this province may be overlooked by visitors who not infrequently prefer to spend their time around Erbil and Sulaymaniyah. However, a trip to the Kurdistan region of Iraq is not complete without Duhok, as there’s plenty to see in the city and around.
The city of Duhok was founded millennia ago, and during its history it has fallen into the hands of several empires such as the Assyrian, Babylonian, and Roman, for example. By this time, it was a beacon of Christianity in the Middle East until the conquest of Mesopotamia by Timur, whose vast empire went all the way to Central Asia.
In the mean time, Yazidism became prominent in the region when Sheikh Adi settled in Lalish valley after studying in Baghdad and started an order of his own (12th century). Yazidism is a endogamous and monotheistic religion based in the belief that one God created the world and entrusted it to seven angels. The most prominent of these divine creatures would be the peacock-angel (Tawûsê Melek).
As Yazidis grew in number and influence, conflicts arose with neighbouring religions, mostly Islam. They have been persecuted for centuries as their religion was perceived as heretic. Not long ago, the ISIL/ISIS conducted a massacre of Yazidis in the city of Sinjar (Syria), killing more than five thousand in 2014. By then, many sought refuge in Iraqi Kurdistan. As of today, Iraq ranks #1 in what concerns the number of inhabitating Yazidis, most of them living in the Duhok and Nineveh governorates.
1. Duhok
This is the capital and most populated city of the governorate. It is located in a valley, flanked by nearby mountains on its north and south limits. We used the city as a base to visit sites in the area. Although the city itself doesn’t offer as many things to see as Erbil ou Sulaymanyiah, it has a cool small city vibe to it. We wrote a whole article on the city of Duhok which you can read by clicking here.
In short, these are our top choices to visit here:
- Duhok Dam and waterfalls
- Azadi Park
- The Bazaar
- Peshmerga Cafe
- Zawa Mountain
2. Alqosh
Located on the Nineveh plains of Iraq, just 40km North of Mosul, Alqosh is a predominantly catholic town. Due to religion issues, this population has been occasionally attacked throughout history. The last time it happened was in 2014, when ISIS tried to take over the town. Most inhabitants fled but a few men stayed to protect their city. Luckily, the Peshmerga intervened and ISIS never took it.
We noticed that the checkpoint security was tighter here, and that’s because the city already belongs to the Nineveh Governorate, whose capital is Mosul. So we were technically on federal Iraq but the control of the plains is disputed by the Kurdish. As it is closer to Duhok than Mosul and visiting is possible from Iraqi Kurdistan, we’ll unofficially catalog it under this “Duhok Governorate” section.
In the city we may visit the catholic churches, which is something we wouldn’t expect to see in Iraq. There is also a “mini-Alqosh” in the northern section of the city, which tries to represent the village in ancient times.
On the slopes of the mountains, stands a catholic monastery that’s worth a visit. Rabban Hormizd Chaldean Monastery endured the struggles brought by centuries of history and is still intact today. However, it is not active nowadays because it was too vulnerable to attacks. A new monastery, Notre Dame des Semences (Our Lady of the Seeds), was built in the outskirts of the city and replaced this one.
- Expected visiting time (Alqosh + monastery): 3h
- There are no entrance fees that we’re aware of
3. Lalish
The holiest of cities for the Yazidi religion, where Sheikh Adi settled and created his own order. Today, his tomb can be visited inside one of the holy structures: a series of dark tunnels lead our way there. The city is craved with holy sites dedicated to mysterious deities we never heard of, the most prominent of which is the peacock-angel. We must enter the city barefoot, or at least without our shoes on.
Yazidism is a poorly known religion as one can’t convert to it: we must be born one. Also, if they marry someone who’s not a Yazidi, they’re automatically excluded from the cult. At least once in their lifetime, Yazidis must complete a six-day pilgrimage to Lalish, to visit the tomb of Sheikh Adi and other mystical sites.
- Expected visiting time: 2-3h
- The town is free to visit
4. Saddam Hussein’s abandoned mansion
On the road to from Duhok to Amedi, there’s a villa which belonged to Saddam Hussein (GPS coordinates: 37°05’49.4″N 43°21’19.1″E). From the many he built during his 23-year dictatorship, this one offers great views over the Amedi valley, being nicknamed the “Kurdish Bird’s Nest”. It is completely looted and destroyed, and is surrounded by hundreds of landmines. While being open to tourists, caution is advised when visiting it.
The high walls of the mansion facing the main road are home to some spectacular Kurdish propaganda graffitis which yield great pictures.
- Expected visiting time: 45min
5. Amedi (Amadiya)
Built on a natural plateau, Amedi is very close to the previous highlight, Saddam’s abandoned villa. The plateau, with its steep borders, provided some strong natural defences against invaders. Until recent times, Amedi was only accessible through a narrow stairway cut into the rock that eventually reached the famous Badinan Gate. Today, the most relevant highlights of the town are this gate and the ancient mosque, built on the 12th century.
- Expected duration of visit: 1-2 hours
6. Akre (Aqrah)
One of the most charming cities of Kurdistan, Akre is considered the capital of Nowruz, an important festivity for Kurds. The Nowruz is celebrated on the Spring equinox and symbolizes a new year in Kurdish tradition.
The town was built in 580 BC on the slope of a mountain range, and is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. Once here, one must not leave without a climb to the citadel (on the top left of the picture below). Albeit being mostly in ruins, it’s possible to identify a cistern and enter some rock-hewn chambers. The views over the city are well worth the hike (it should take 30-40min to climb).
The prominent mosque and the city’s labyrinthical alleyways should not be skipped as well.
- Expected duration of visit: 3-4h
And that’s it for our favourite landmarks of the Duhok Governorate! Any query or suggestion? Feel free to comment on the section below!